3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: no pencil
Russel Mac,
I Laughed and Laughed!
Enjoying as always, Jack's posts and the peanut gallery comments as well.
Regards,
Andy
I Laughed and Laughed!
Enjoying as always, Jack's posts and the peanut gallery comments as well.
Regards,
Andy
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3016
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Show Russ the pencil, Jack. You know the one I mean.....
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
-
- Posts: 582
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:59 pm
- Location: Germany, Duesseldorf
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello Jack,
To see, understand and build as a model - that it is The idea how to do the job is another story yet,
Keep on going your way and please show it to us - we modelers are strongly interested
Best regards
asteamhead
To see, understand and build as a model - that it is The idea how to do the job is another story yet,
Keep on going your way and please show it to us - we modelers are strongly interested
Best regards
asteamhead
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10560
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
side bearings for trucks:
tack weld them to the side 'frame' after the bottom corrugation is in place..
tack weld them to the side 'frame' after the bottom corrugation is in place..
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack, a few pages back you caught my attention with the blackening agent for copper and brass. Having never had luck with getting paint to stick to brass and copper I loved the idea until I looked up the price and saw the stuff you're using is $120 a bottle!
I found on Amazon.com a product called "Birchwood" brass blackening for $6/bottle and gave it a try. https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey- ... 310&sr=8-3
First results were a little disappointing until I figured out that you need to start with really clean brass or copper. A quick trip to the wire wheel and it worked real well on an old piece of copper tube used as a sample. Only problem was it was a very very dull black. I'm thinking the next test will be to get some gloss coat to go over the black and see how that looks. Finish however sticks a lot better than paint What about the stuff you are using? Does it require coating with a gloss coat or does it leave a shiny color when done?
Does your stuff require very clean surfaces or will it do the cleaning for you?
I am wondering if it's worth the added cost?
I found on Amazon.com a product called "Birchwood" brass blackening for $6/bottle and gave it a try. https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey- ... 310&sr=8-3
First results were a little disappointing until I figured out that you need to start with really clean brass or copper. A quick trip to the wire wheel and it worked real well on an old piece of copper tube used as a sample. Only problem was it was a very very dull black. I'm thinking the next test will be to get some gloss coat to go over the black and see how that looks. Finish however sticks a lot better than paint What about the stuff you are using? Does it require coating with a gloss coat or does it leave a shiny color when done?
Does your stuff require very clean surfaces or will it do the cleaning for you?
I am wondering if it's worth the added cost?
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello ?
Please include your name when corresponding. The material to be blackened should be absolutely clean. This includes grease and oxides. The blackener I like to use is the chemical shown in my post. It is much more effective than the Birchwood Casey product. Both products should be applied and then wiped off with a paper towel. This should be repeated until you get the desired effect. Soaking will cause the covering to lift. I like to apply a clear coat. This can be satin or gloss. I like clear acrylic better that lacquer as it seems to be more durable.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Please include your name when corresponding. The material to be blackened should be absolutely clean. This includes grease and oxides. The blackener I like to use is the chemical shown in my post. It is much more effective than the Birchwood Casey product. Both products should be applied and then wiped off with a paper towel. This should be repeated until you get the desired effect. Soaking will cause the covering to lift. I like to apply a clear coat. This can be satin or gloss. I like clear acrylic better that lacquer as it seems to be more durable.
Happy Model Building
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Here is some more progress on the tender frame, mainly the rear buffer beam. This has some interesting shapes going on. Some inside curves in the recess, and some tapered sections. The outer corners have a 1/2" radius. The main body of the buffer is .100" hot rolled steel. All the steel was rusty when I brought it in from the rack. It was cleaned up using the round end of the belt sander. Here is a start on one of the inside radius pieces. It fits right in the outer end of the buffer.
Here is some more progress on the tender frame, mainly the rear buffer beam. This has some interesting shapes going on. Some inside curves in the recess, and some tapered sections. The outer corners have a 1/2" radius. The main body of the buffer is .100" hot rolled steel. All the steel was rusty when I brought it in from the rack. It was cleaned up using the round end of the belt sander. Here is a start on one of the inside radius pieces. It fits right in the outer end of the buffer.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Now we are starting to get somewhere.
Jack
Here it is mostly finished. I like the way all that bare metal looks. It's almost a shame to paint it , but to look like a locomotive, it must be black. This sub assembly will be silver soldered together once I'm sure all is good. This won't happen until I mock up the tender trucks and figure out the dimensions for the center sill. Then I can set up the drawbar height to mach the locomotive, and have a proper rear coupler height, and draft gear. This is one of them can't do this, until you do that, and you can't do that...you get the picture. It's easy to build yourself into a corner. I hate it when that happens.
See You In The Funny Pages...Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Here is some progress on the tender frame. In this first photo a 7/64" slot was being milled to recieve the corrugated bottom Here the center sill is being TIG welded together. Everything was clamped to the steel welding table and and was not un clamped until after completely cooled. This minimizes distortion. Here a test piece of the corrugated bottom is being slit. This will allow it to be bent. And here is the test piece mocked up with the center, side sill, and end buffer just for a look. The bend in the corrugated piece is not in the right spot as I just wanted to see if this would work and it looks like it will. Now its time to start the drawbar pocket at the front of the frame and the draft gear at the other end. Once everything looks good, the end buffers, the drawbar pocket, and draft gear will be silver soldered together. Then the frame can be TIG and MIG welded together. Even though some sub assemblies are silver soldered they can be welded together without melting the solder by moving around and not putting too much heat in one area. TIG will be used where the welds are visible, and MIG on the inside where they won't show. There are mounting points to be drilled and tapped for things like the water scoop, and the brake cylinder. Also bosses for the truck safety chains and some piping brackets. Then the tank can be started. This is the really fun part. Brass sheet and lots of rivets. Too much fun!
Jack
Here is some progress on the tender frame. In this first photo a 7/64" slot was being milled to recieve the corrugated bottom Here the center sill is being TIG welded together. Everything was clamped to the steel welding table and and was not un clamped until after completely cooled. This minimizes distortion. Here a test piece of the corrugated bottom is being slit. This will allow it to be bent. And here is the test piece mocked up with the center, side sill, and end buffer just for a look. The bend in the corrugated piece is not in the right spot as I just wanted to see if this would work and it looks like it will. Now its time to start the drawbar pocket at the front of the frame and the draft gear at the other end. Once everything looks good, the end buffers, the drawbar pocket, and draft gear will be silver soldered together. Then the frame can be TIG and MIG welded together. Even though some sub assemblies are silver soldered they can be welded together without melting the solder by moving around and not putting too much heat in one area. TIG will be used where the welds are visible, and MIG on the inside where they won't show. There are mounting points to be drilled and tapped for things like the water scoop, and the brake cylinder. Also bosses for the truck safety chains and some piping brackets. Then the tank can be started. This is the really fun part. Brass sheet and lots of rivets. Too much fun!
Jack
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10560
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Know exactly where your head is.
In the middle of painting a very beautiful (for me) brass tender.
In the middle of painting a very beautiful (for me) brass tender.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Hey Bill, I think everyone here would like to see your tender. I know I would. Here is some progress on the tender frame. I am using one of my investment cast 4140 couplers. Here is the draft gear set up. It uses the same springs for both push and pull. For this coupler I am using two heavy springs made from .040" spring stainless wire. For rolling stock I like to use lighter springs. And here they are stuffed into the coupler. Here is a look at the daft gear. The draft gear on the prototype was part of the frame casting. This one will be a bolt on arrangement set up to look like it's part of the main casting. Flat head machine screws will be hidden inside to hold it to the center sill. The bottom cover will also be held in place with small flathead machine screws. This draft is set up so that the coupler height can be adjusted up or down a sixteenth of an inch. This is done by using using delrin sheet above and below the coupler shank. Also by the carry iron arrangement. Here is the hole mess sort of mocked up for a look. Now to start on the drawbar pocket at the other end of the tender frame. It's considerably more complicated than the coupler pocket. It will be a silver soldered steel assembly and then welded to the center sill. Trying to get the tender frame finished up so I can start on the tank, the fun part.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Hey Bill, I think everyone here would like to see your tender. I know I would. Here is some progress on the tender frame. I am using one of my investment cast 4140 couplers. Here is the draft gear set up. It uses the same springs for both push and pull. For this coupler I am using two heavy springs made from .040" spring stainless wire. For rolling stock I like to use lighter springs. And here they are stuffed into the coupler. Here is a look at the daft gear. The draft gear on the prototype was part of the frame casting. This one will be a bolt on arrangement set up to look like it's part of the main casting. Flat head machine screws will be hidden inside to hold it to the center sill. The bottom cover will also be held in place with small flathead machine screws. This draft is set up so that the coupler height can be adjusted up or down a sixteenth of an inch. This is done by using using delrin sheet above and below the coupler shank. Also by the carry iron arrangement. Here is the hole mess sort of mocked up for a look. Now to start on the drawbar pocket at the other end of the tender frame. It's considerably more complicated than the coupler pocket. It will be a silver soldered steel assembly and then welded to the center sill. Trying to get the tender frame finished up so I can start on the tank, the fun part.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
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- Posts: 582
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:59 pm
- Location: Germany, Duesseldorf
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello Jack,
Well done! Like to see your pages several times a week for more!
Asteamhead
Well done! Like to see your pages several times a week for more!
Asteamhead