3/4" Scale J1e

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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Now we are starting to get somewhere. The flexible ball joints are fitted up with the piping and insulation. Over the years of service this insulation was often removed. Mainly on the engineers side of the engine, which is the exhaust piping. Sometimes it was replaced with wrapped insulation. As I am modeling the engine in a like new but in service (not shiny) condition the insulation will all be in place.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
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Booster Pipe80.jpeg
Booster Pipe81.jpeg
partime
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by partime »

Wow. Looks great Jack!
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Thank you partime, having fun here making little baloney. Several bolted flanges will be needed for the booster piping as it travels forward from the booster. Some 17/32" brass was nipped into short lengths using the horizontal band saw.
Piping200.jpeg
Then using collet with a stop in the lathe was used to face them off to length.
Piping201.jpeg
Then they sew turned to the shape we see here. The ends fit into 5/16" tube. to fit into the 5/16" tube.
Piping203.jpeg
Then over to the rotary table to spot the holes for the bolts.
Piping204.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

The small sensitive drill press was used to poke the holes for the #00-90 brass model bolts.
Piping205.jpeg
The bolts are a bit too long and will be trimmed.
IMG_207.jpeg
Here is the flange in the steam pipe for a look.
Piping208.jpeg
And lastly with the sheathing retainer rings just slipped on for another look. These tiny rings are a very minor detail, but add greatly to the look of the finished piping.
Piping209.jpeg
See Ya' Later Alligator.
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

I managed to get some time in on the little Hudson. The cabs of these engines had small doors out the front to access the running boards. The early Hudsons had steel cabs with wooden doors in a metal framed opening. The later engines had aluminum cabs with a cast aluminum door frame and door. Both had a small tip out ventilator window. As I am modeling one of the earlier Hudsons, a J1e I thought it would be fun to make some wood doors for the front of the cab. Some brass door frames were made up like we have here. With the start of the wood doors. These doors are a bit different in that the stiles one side have an angle to fit the contour of the boiler.
Doors1.jpeg
Here we have the rough stiles and rails.
Doors2.jpeg
Here the groove is being milled in a stile. The grooves are 3/64" wide and .060" deep. I happened to find a tiny scrap of 3/64" glass in my stash. It was just big enough for these two doors.
Doors3.jpeg
And here a rail is having the tongue cut. The tongue is .046" wide and .050" long.
Doors4.jpeg
Here is a look at the fit.
Doors5.jpeg
Last edited by JBodenmann on Thu Jun 30, 2022 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Here is a test assembly
Doors6.jpeg
A closer look.
Doors7.jpeg
And here are the door parts with the glass pieces.
Doors8.jpeg
Glued together. Now the doors are .125" thick and will be sanded to .110" thick and trimmed.
Doors9.jpeg
Here they have been sanded and fitted into the brass door frames. They still need a bit of finessing but that won't be done until the hinges are fitted up. I checked the hinge stash and I had six hinges. Just perfect as each door has three hinges. These hinges will get cut down a bit. As the prototype had a small ventilator that tipped out this will be simulated. I thought about making actual tip out windows but they would have by necessity, been just too narrow. The glass in these doors is already too narrow, so dummy tip outs will do. Having more fun than a barrel of monkeys.
Jack
Doors10.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
The cab front doors are coming along nicely. Some recesses we're milled in the door frames to locate the hinges. These were soft soldered in place by propping the door frames up on some fire brick so that gravity would hold the hinges in place. Flux was applied carefully so as not to get any on the hinge barrels. Some tiny bits of electronic solder were placed at each hinge and then things were heated with a small propane torch. The solder slurped right into place.
Doors11.jpeg
Doors12.jpeg
Here a door has been placed on a frame to have a look. The door doesn't quite fit. That is because the recesses for the hinges haven't been cut.
Doors13.jpeg
Here the recesses are being milled in the doors to receive the hinges. This was done a little at a time, and then testing the fit.
Doors14.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Once happy with the fit of the doors in the door frames, some tiny screws were used to hold them in place.
Doors15.jpeg
As these screws are really tiny the optivisor and tweezers came in handy.
Doors16.jpeg
Here they are stuck together.
Doors17.jpeg
These last two snappies show the doors and door frames fitted to the cab front. Just sat in place and not fastened. The full size used rivets but I will use small roundhead screws in case they ever need a repair. As the J1e's had a full width turret casing they had to have a recess to allow the front doors to open. Just another distinctive characteristic of these engines. That's one cool thing about steam. Most railroads had very unique features. Diesels don't have that. Different paint jobs is about it.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Doors18.jpeg
Doors19.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Here is some progress on 5344. As the cab front doors are now finished it's time to rivet the cab together. The cab sides have two sizes of rivets. Most are .050" and the smaller ones in the center of the cab side are .035".
Here they are being set. Most are flush riveted on the inside. The holes with a circle around them don't get a rivet as these are for small round head screws that will hold the sides to the front. This will allow the cab to be removed while leaving the front in place.
Cab201.jpeg
Cab203.jpeg
Here is my set up for riveting. A wood support was stuck together with the hot glue gun to hold one end of the work piece while setting the rivets. This makes this job so much easier.
Cab204.jpeg
Cab205.jpeg
Here we have the riveted cab side.
Cab206.jpeg
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Next up will be the roof. Before riveting the ribs in place they will have some holes drilled for the screws that will hold curved wood battens. These battens are what the tongue and groove siding will be screwed to. I'm trying to get as much done on the engine as possible before taking it to Train Mountain.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Cab208.jpeg
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Cab207.jpeg
Last edited by JBodenmann on Wed Jun 08, 2022 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andy R
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riveting the cab for the 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by Andy R »

Jack,
Some silly questions:
It looks like you insert the rivet, then cut it off, then use a flat punch as the rivet tool, with a recessed punch for the buck on the outside. (a) Is that about right?
(b) How much do you leave to end up with the rivet flat with the inside surface?
(c) How much if any do you over drill the holes? One # size or ...?
(d) Without looking back through 72 pages, and forgive me if it's obvious, what is the thickness of brass used for the sides, roof, and angles?
Very nice work as usual. We all learn a lot from your posts.
Andy
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JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Andy is correct. The rivet is inserted, trimmed, and then placed with the head on the buck and given a couple smacks with a flat ended rod.
The rivets are trimmed with flush cutting nippers and only project ten thousandth's or so.
The holes are one number drill oversize and countersunk with a 60 degree cutter.
The brass is .040". Both sheets and angle.
If to scale, the brass should be thinner. But thinner brass is difficult to rivet without causing distortion. There are always compromises to be made.
Happy Model Building
Jack
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