Castor wheels for the mill

Discussion on all milling machines vertical & horizontal, including but not limited to Bridgeports, Hardinge, South Bend, Clausing, Van Norman, including imports.

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liveaboard
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by liveaboard »

Thanks, Harold;
This project has escaped the realm of practicality a while ago.
I think there are more than 100 parts!

But once started, there's nothing to do but keep going until the job gets done.
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liveaboard
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by liveaboard »

I assembled the hydraulic pump;
Mixed results.
The o rings work ok against pressure, but are quite ineffective against vacuum.
So even though the hydraulic reservoir is above the pump, when drawing oil in through the check valve and convoluted bores, air gets pulled in.
Still, it lifted the 1.3 ton mill right up onto the wheels after a while.

I need to get a real hydraulic seal for the pump. It's not expensive but $10 minimum purchase + $8 postage is irritating.

And that size of seal can't be squished into an open groove, and the smallest od is just 2mm smaller than the rod I made the cylinder from...
So after boring, there's not enough material to add a retaining ring.
Ah well, it's all for fun, right?
pump block 1.jpg
pump block half made.jpg
adaptor plate oil gally drilling.jpg
pump adaptor oring grooves.jpg
pump adaptor plate ready.jpg
hydraulic pump mounted.jpg
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Bill Shields
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Bill Shields »

Sometimes it is the journey not the end result...or is it the result and not the journey?

Eithery way, we all have gained a lot from your stick-to-it-ivness and creativity.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Harold_V
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Harold_V »

If nothing else, "failed" projects are quite valuable in teaching one the lessons that avoid future failures. I had one such experience many years ago when I built a charging system that would fit in the bilge of our 24' Cruisers Gran Bateau. It came equipped with a small electrically powered refrigerator so battery life was quite limited. The first iteration of the charging system was a resounding failure but provided the needed information that allowed for a successful second build, which included converting an 8 horse Kohler engine to being water cooled. The charging system, which included two deep cycle batteries, independent of the primary battery, worked exceedingly well and was still performing to expectations when the boat was sold years later.

Your project has been interesting!

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Live aboard,
Just saw your last page, where you’ve got everything built and in place! Nice work! I recently visited a retired machinist with a two man shop that served a now closed lumber mill near by. He made a good living sliding 20’ long shafts needing repair from the old mill through the hole in his shop wall.
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Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
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liveaboard
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by liveaboard »

I finished the lift wheels, but it seems I never finished this thread...
I suddenly realized how to save on postage of parts; just buy them in town at a 'real' shop. the 22mm seal is pretty common.
I managed to cut a groove in the cylinder I made earlier, and squeeze the seal into it.

So, the final result;
The system works reasonably well. the pump lifts the mill with moderate effort in reasonable time, and it stays up until the bypass valve is opened.

But...
It takes a lot of effort to roll it, far more than I was hoping for. In fact, I can barely move it at all unless I can get my back on a wall and use my feet.
I don't know if the wheels are too hard, or too soft. Maybe that's just how it has to be with this much weight.

I'll add a couple of pictures of the finished work in a day or two.
new groove for pump.jpg
The second oring groove no longer used is visible under the new seal.
pump seal.jpg
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Bill Shields
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Bill Shields »

Are you on concrete - or the bottom of the container which may be flexing under the point load.

No such thing as too hard a wheel.

Bearings and axles rated for the load?

Swivels rated for the load? Sometimes just getting the wheels aligned to move in one direction is a problem. Is why a lot of riggers skates have steel wheels so that they can slide/rotate
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by liveaboard »

I made the castors and the wheels; but yes, they're rated well above the load. The castors sit on taper roller bearings and the wheels on sealed ball bearings.
The shop is a sea container and the floor is thick plywood. There is no visible flexing.
The tires are made from hard plastic tube over steel and have very little give. I made them wide to distribute the load but the long contact patch makes them resist swiveling to point in the desired direction.

Even after they're aligned, it takes a mighty effort to get the machine to roll.
I guess it is what it is, but the idea was that it would be easy enough that I'll still be able to roll it as I get older.

Sure, I can use tackle or something. That's how I moved it before I made the wheels.
castor parts 2.jpg
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Bill Shields
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Bill Shields »

Plywood may be the problem

Under load it is compressible - and you may well be pushing uphill
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Bill Shields »

You might want (for giggles) to put an indicator on a wheel and see how much the plywood compresses under load.

Even .5 mm compression is a lot of uphill pushing.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Harold_V
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by Harold_V »

I agree with Bill. A pallet jack can handle a couple tons and you can move the load easily. That's on concrete, of course!

Larger diameter wheels would help, but even that may not help enough on wood.

H
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Re: Castor wheels for the mill

Post by liveaboard »

I'm sure you're right, but there isn't much I can do about it now.
Steel plate floor maybe...
I was also thinking I should measure the axel height, it could be that the plastic tires are compressing more than I thought. I could take the plastic off and have plain steel wheels.

Other stuff to do today, but I will report the results when they're in.
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