installing quil on mill drill

[spro]

The fine feed will move the lever feed but the lever feed will bind on the worm. There is a way there, which shifts the worm wheel off the splines. Mine is different, yet common enough. There is a knurled collar just inside the lever feed, which shifts it out or in. This had been mentioned. Isn't there like a knob at the other side of the lever shaft. That would be it. It got jammed and bent a little too.

[Lewayne]

]

]Okay, I’m back to this project. I have a woodwork project I needed a scroll saw for. So happens I have one but a guy gave it to me 12 years ago, not in working order and in my way. So I completely rebuilt it.
So, my history on the mill. When put back together after clean up and paint the drill press levers are very hard to pull down. Way too tight for the spring to return it. The fine adjustment will run the quill down but it’s way too firm as well.
Si I took it apart and checked both shafts, thinking one or the other must be bent. Not so. So back to square one.
I’m posting close ups of both gears for examination all I can think now is the gears are binding for some reason and won’t trum freely. The black cast part was not spinning on the shaft freely when I put it back together either. I cleaned out the hole with a little sand paper drum, just lightly and it spins freely now though.There are some shiny spots on the steel gear down by the flats. Snd the black gear has shiny metal where it is relieved maybe that’s from the factory?

[pete]

Given the fresh newly exposed metal on that worm wheel the worm isn't properly seating into the worm wheel. Why or what's causing that is impossible to say through pictures. Find out why that's happening and you'll have it fixed. Worms and worm wheels are both a gear reduction and torque multiplier. If it's tight at all your simply doing further damage by forcing it. The spindle should extend and retract fairly smoothly once everything is correct. If some of that metal on the freshly worn areas is peened over and outside the tooth flanks of the worm wheel teeth you'll have to file that off. At this point that worm wheel is getting or is damaged to where you may need a new one. Again it's impossible to properly judge that by a few pictures. Find and correct the problem then if the worm starts to skip a tooth when operated you'll know you need a new part.

[Lewayne]

Which part might have to be replaced, the worm wheel, I’m assuming that’s the black part.

[pete]

Yes the worm wheel (black part). But there's no point in replacing it until you can figure out what's causing the misalignment first. It may or may not be damaged enough to need replacing, but something is causing the worm to not correctly mesh with the teeth on the worm wheel. I've no idea how that mill works since I've never run one, but however it's done the worm needs to be taken out of mesh with the worm wheel when using the spider (long handles) when drilling. When milling you'd use the vertical travel of the head to set your rough Z axis elevation and then use the worm meshed with the worm wheel to set your depth of cut on the spindles Z axis during one or multiple passes on the part your machining. When the worm is engaged with that worm wheel the spider cant be used to move the spindle. So you have either a drilling mode where the spindle is moved the same as in a drill press, or you have a milling mode where the spindle can only be moved up and down using the hand wheel. Your not trying to use both methods at the same time are you?

[spro]

I think it was. The long teeth must move the quill with either drive, so the worm has to be disconnected while using lever feed. I see that the drive shaft can only go one direction so that knob pulls the worm wheel's key back while engaging the lever feed by a cone clutch. OP could've said more about that but I see no other reason for that collar and possibly tapered hub of the lever drive. Right, okay it may shift the key from the worm wheel to lever hub. So then, you have to fiddle to get the key aligned with the hub in order to pull it in.

[pete]

It's not a manual for this specific Zay machine but the parts for the quill feed look to be set up about the same. Go here https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzl ... Feed/G0754 look on the top right hand column and download the user manual Lewayne. That threaded hand knob looks like it allows the switching between fine and coarse feeds on the spindle.

[Lewayne]

Thanks guys, I have figured out how to operate it. The hand screw on the press handle Engages or disengages a clutch, if you will, to go between the lever feed and the fine adjustment wheel. I’ll post a picture, but when I tighten down the two bolts that mount the white casting piece. If I tighten this bolts everything stops turning. After a complete tear down and reassembly it’s is working better now though, if I leave the bolts a bit loose.
So I started selecting shims to go under the casting. At .016 spacing works pretty well. Still a bit tighter than perfect but workable. Might just seat in after some use. I think the spacing changes the spot where the worm engages the worm drive where it is relieved. I’m guessing the relief is located a little out of line for some reason. Either from the factory or some reason since. The exact spacing may just select the sweet spot for the gears. That casting was joined with bondo. It had a bondo gusset around it. So I might have lost a couple shims when I dissembled it.
So I’m thinking I will get some shim stock and put it together.

[Lewayne]

I just wanted to say I think I have the mill working again. Maybe not perfect, but perfectly useable I think. I went to say thanks for all the help. Even a single sentence from some of you effected how I thought about the problem. Gave me a direction. I do think this is the result of several small machining errors made in China.
So I really appreciate your comments and putting up with my ignorance so kindly. That’s not always the case on some forums.