installing quil on mill drill
Re: installing quil on mill drill
I wasn't trying to re bore the center just find a way to get it on the lathe so I can get accurate measurements to find a high point for any bend that may be in the shaft, so I can straighten it, maybe. The hole in the end of the shaft is only a threaded hole for the hand nob that tightens the lever handles for the drill press operations. Right now I can't even tell if the shaft is bent, because all I'm measuring, I think, is the amount that hole, I was using for center, is off center. And yes, I'm trying to get measurements as close to the end as I can get, with the dial indicator, to start with then see if it's different in the center of the shaft, width would indicate that it was bent.
sorry, I just trying to think through this. this is all kind of new to me. I'm a wood worker and if its within a 1/16" I'm pretty happy. Of course wood will change dimension more that that, depending on the humidity.
sorry, I just trying to think through this. this is all kind of new to me. I'm a wood worker and if its within a 1/16" I'm pretty happy. Of course wood will change dimension more that that, depending on the humidity.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
I feel you're doing just fine. Your logic is good, and the method by which you're trying to determine the condition of the shaft is good. However, there is another way you can pursue this, assuming there's a reasonable length of shaft. If you place the shaft in a V block, when you rotate it if it's bent it will cause the unsupported portion to oscillate. If you have a flat surface and a magnetic base, or other means to fold the indicator rigidly, you can then rotate the shaft by hand, taking care to not move the V block. That will give you an idea of how much the shaft is out of true. If you don't have a surface plate, you can use the table of your mill. Might be faster and easier than recutting the end hole.
If you have a mill, and you've maintained it well, the table should be burr free. You can accomplish that by using a flat file, no handle. Place the file on the mill table, and draw it along with your hands, sideways. The tip of the file can lead the tang. If you use a somewhat dull file, it won't take anything off the table, but it will remove any protrusions. When the file skates along the table surface effortlessly, it should be clean of dings.
H
If you have a mill, and you've maintained it well, the table should be burr free. You can accomplish that by using a flat file, no handle. Place the file on the mill table, and draw it along with your hands, sideways. The tip of the file can lead the tang. If you use a somewhat dull file, it won't take anything off the table, but it will remove any protrusions. When the file skates along the table surface effortlessly, it should be clean of dings.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
That was upright when i selected the photo but went wonky when I hit submit. My guess is, and I'm trying to work that out now, that the bend is in what appears to be the bottom of the shaft, just past the bigger part in the center. that's the end that sticks out of the head with the drill press handle on it.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
One photo shows the bushing in the casting. The shaft slides on here easily and spins easily.
The second photo shows the out hole the shaft passes through. This hole is not very clean and the shaft binds just a bit going through it. I can force and work it on by hand but it does not down well.
I last photo shows the casting on the shaft up til it hits the out hole where it binds.
I got the shaft on the lathe between centers all trued up and the shah is running within .001 so it does not appear to have any bend in it.
When I got the machine it was in such rusty grimy shape nothing wanted to turn smoothly so I didn’t give the drill press leavers much thought but I don’t think they turned well then. I didn’t want to really do much moving of parts until I got it cleaned up and lubracated anyway. But I’m thinking it was stiff then too. I’m back to the idea of cleaning the rear hole in the casting a bit now. That casting has to turn freely on the shaft.
The second photo shows the out hole the shaft passes through. This hole is not very clean and the shaft binds just a bit going through it. I can force and work it on by hand but it does not down well.
I last photo shows the casting on the shaft up til it hits the out hole where it binds.
I got the shaft on the lathe between centers all trued up and the shah is running within .001 so it does not appear to have any bend in it.
When I got the machine it was in such rusty grimy shape nothing wanted to turn smoothly so I didn’t give the drill press leavers much thought but I don’t think they turned well then. I didn’t want to really do much moving of parts until I got it cleaned up and lubracated anyway. But I’m thinking it was stiff then too. I’m back to the idea of cleaning the rear hole in the casting a bit now. That casting has to turn freely on the shaft.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
Is the size that k on those photos?
Re: installing quil on mill drill
This is the Mill/drill when I got it snd a shot of where I am with it now.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
Sorry, I must have tapped an extra photo there. How do I remove that?
Re: installing quil on mill drill
There is a short window of opportunity to edit posts. In order for you to remove a posted image, you must hit the edit button, assuming it is still at your disposal, then hit the attachments button when the edit page opens. You can then select the proper image to delete.
As we limit the time before you can no longer edit a post (that was done because of a reader having a nasty habit of posting, then deleting posts, which often ruined a thread), I have taken the liberty to remove the unwanted image, which was quite obvious.
The size of your images as well as the file size is very acceptable. Good job!
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
Sometimes, " a reader" must correct, while he can, to save a thread. Things are expressed in passion which don't mesh well to the board, so they have to go. They hardly ruin a thread.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
More to the issue. That shaft is bent and I don't see any re bending advise taken. Look at that worm wheel for the fine feed and how it is deformed. These mills get moved around and whatever hand wheel or projection is subject to impact.
Re: installing quil on mill drill
That's an opinion not shared with those who own and manage this board, which should be quite obvious, as the edit feature was removed by administration. Here, we expect posts to be of intelligent content, on topic, not misleading (misinformation will not be tolerated) and to comply with our mandates of no profanity or vulgarity, no politics, no religion. Those who find these restrictions objectionable are free to start their own board, where they can set the rules. They are not free to challenge what exists here, and no space should be wasted in that attempt. Please comply accordingly.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.