Way wear and lube

[BadDog]

I use the "almost like cloth" shop paper towels. Squirt a light drizzle along the way to be cleaned/coated, and use a folded up edge of the towel to both spread and wipe off. When it comes up black, do it again until satisfied it's clean. The remaining film will protect in most climates. When I didn't have an apron oiler built in, I drilled holes and added oiling ports so I could flush/flood from behind the wipers. But in any case, you usually don't want the ways left wet as that promotes dirt/dust/grit adhesion. But then again, always best to wipe down before using, particularly if it's been a while.

For other way surfaces like the tail stock, I clean the ways first, loosen off, wet the area just ahead with oil, lift the leading edge as much as possible to clear (may need a lever to break the stiction) and slide it over the wet film. Not all the time mind you, but every so often, and every time before actively using the tail stock ways (like drilling deep holes). Most just provide a wet film ahead and slide over, but I like to get it to squish (flush) out every once in a while.

[RSG]

I bought a proper pump can along with the Vactra 2 and wish I did years ago. For the first time ever the oiling detents on the lathe work as intended. But aside from just oiling them I squirt a drop in front of the carriage on both sides and travel it back and forth as few times. Same for the tailstock, cross slide and top slide. I find while using coolant requires more oiling as it does a number on the way oil so I oil it more during this operation.

[Harold_V]

It's simple, folks. Look at the ways of any machine with built in oiling. The ways are ALWAYS WET with oil. A hint of oil is just as good at trapping dust as a thick film is, so the only real advantage of using oil sparingly is you save a few cents on oil, all the while doing dollars worth of damage to the machine.

Ways should be wet with oil, and it should be the same color as it was when it was dispensed. If it's dark at all, it should be wiped clean and replaced with fresh oil. Do this long enough and the contaminants that have accumulated within way surfaces will eventually all be removed.

The last job I held (prior to starting my shop) I chose a small Clausing lathe to operate, as I was pretty much assigned all the small work in the shop, work that had come from the shop where I was trained. The Clausing had been used for everything, and everybody. No one had been assigned to the machine, so it was used for quick jobs, even polishing. It had been neglected, rarely wiped and oiled, and was, in general, not great condition. The carriage was stiff to move, as were the cross slide and compound. It was fitted with a six jaw chuck, but most importantly, it also had 5C collets, which were ideal for the vast majority of the work I'd do, and it was capable of 2,000 rpm. While that's not my idea of a fast spindle, it certainly was better than the larger machines in the shop, in spite of its generally neglected condition.

I'd start my day by wiping the machine fully, and applying fresh oil, which I'd also do again in the course of my work day. After a few days, maybe a week, the lathe was restored to a good feel, and the oil would stay clean until wiped and re-oiled. The first few days I figured I'd never see clean oil from the ways, as it would darken immediately.

Wipe and oil, and use oil freely. A flood of oil will generally suspend tiny particles, instead of trap them at the way surface where they are dragged in when the slides are moved.

Harold

[BadDog]

Just to be clear, when I said "The remaining film will protect in most climates", I meant from condensation induced rust, not for use. I frequently have to wipe down my apron and bed sides due to way lube run-off. My oiler is not automatic, but if there is not a nice oil slick coming out from under the wipers, I'm hitting the piston again. If it starts looking off-color, I wipe it off with the paper towels, and hit the piston again with it setting about where I'll be using it, then back out to take the next pass leaving behind a nice sheen of oil. And with part in place, that may take 2 positions and squirts to replace oil where it will be running. The waste is negligible, and I like that the clean oil is always coming from under the mobile machine parts rather than carrying inevitable debris under. I do still have plans to replace the ball oilers on my compound with flush pressure ports, but haven't used the compound enough for that mod to make it up to the top of my list, so I do tend to both put what I can in the ball oilers (never sure if it's enough) and on the ways.

I also clean (with an appropriate size cord) and oil the lead screw prior to each use. It's generally sloppy wet at the start of the job. I don't recall every having a threading job that took long enough to reoil the lead screw, but if doing production work or many passes (perhaps a large acme, square or buttress?) that might be advisable as well.

[liveaboard]

Clean the lead screw with a cord!!!
That's a good idea.

[RSG]

Ways should be wet with oil, and it should be the same color as it was when it was dispensed. If it's dark at all, it should be wiped clean and replaced with fresh oil.
Harold

I used to wonder why it was black and never occurred to me it was metal from the ways until I read it here when you posted it a few years ago Harold.

The stuff I have learned here......

[liveaboard]

I finally got my can of way oil delivered from the UK. The action does seem extra smooth, but I haven't done any work on the lathe since I got it.
I also made felt wipers; this machine didn't have them, and looked like it never did.

But what about the cross and compound slides? What is the recommended lubrication? I've been using grease.

[pete]

"Almost" without exception grease is never used on machine tool slides. I suppose there's at least one machine tool manufacturer who specified it's use at one time or another just to make a liar out of me.

But if you've been using grease then if it were me I'd strip those slides down to clean all the grease out and then use the way oil. You will find a huge difference in how both those slides operate. But grease also tends to collect chips and will accelerate the wear by a lot. Way oil tends to flush them out. Same for the lead and feed screws. Never grease. I always just use the same way oil on them and it seems to work fine.

[liveaboard]

Thanks Pete; I will do that.

[earlgo]

And resuscitating this older thread, I found a different use for the Vactra #2 way oil. The post on the Delta Tool and Cutter Grinder carries the grinding head and it gets sticky and won't allow smooth operation of the screw that raises and lowers the head. Putting a generous amount of Vactra #2 on the post really helped instead of the SAE 10 shown in the chart.

So for all you fellows that have the Delta, this suggestion may help.
--earlgo

[Glenn Brooks]

Thought about this thread when I fired up my old trusty round column grizzly mill this afternoon. The head was hard, hard, hard to crank. So, squirted some way oil on the column and hand rubbed it in. Wallaaaa. Smooth as silk. THANKS FOR THE REMINDER, GUYS!!! Sometimes one just needs a nudge to stay focused on the right things. A little PM goes a long ways!

[N.R. Davis]

My Lathe, S.B. 10K has been oiled with 80/90 Valvoline Gear Oil since new. Easy to get and I still have original Flaking on the Ways. Oh, by the way I never ever use Sandpaper or an abrasive to finish a part. Nuts about keeping it free from grit. Cover it with a heavy cloth when not in use.