Self-Tightening Albrecht Chuck

[OlderNewbie]

With my mill I got an Albrecht chuck. When I use it, it self-tightens, sometimes to the point where I need to use a large pliers to release it. As this is a keyless chuck I "assume" this is not expected behavior. On the plus side, it need not be tightened particularly hard to grip remarkably well. But from gentle snugging up to really tightening it before use it still sticks on release.

Any idea what the problem might be? I'm starting to wish it had a chuck key...

John

[lakeside53]

It's getting worn out or has something jammed inside. I have 7-8 Albrecht's; only the old "somewhat beaten" chuck tends to do this. If it really bugs you - you can buy a kit from Albrecht (and resellers) consisting of jaws and outer shell.

Before you do anything, take it apart and clean it. Look of Albrecht's site for exactly how to do this - you'll need to make a simple clamp. Holding the chuck in a vise will damage the outer shell. Oh... it will be very tight to undo.

[GlennW]

They can self tighten if using hole saws greater than about an inch.

[lakeside53]

Certainly, and bigger drills that get jammed also, but I find if they are in good shape you can still untighten them by hand.

[Lew Hartswick]

Please don't use pliers to loosen it. Use a strap wrench.
...lew...

[Frank Ford]

My Grizzly keyless chuck came with a hole to allow the use of a pin spanner for loosening, and when my old Albrecht tightened up for the last time, I drilled a similar hole in it. . .

[SteveHGraham]

I was wondering why people don't do that. Git 'er done.

[LIALLEGHENY]

I have a 1/2" Albrecht chuck about 20 years old......not long after I got it I was using a 3/4" drill with a half inch shank, the drill got jammed momentarily while going through a plate I was drilling. When I tried to remove the drill it was jammed and I had to use channel locks to open it. It never worked the same again, it felt like it was binding when I would open and close it.
I took it apart and discovered that by it over tightening itself, it forced the row of ball bearings deeper into the ground race on chuck body thus expanding the bearing race outward. This in turn caused an interference with the outer shell that rotated.
I have since learned to only use drills no larger than it's 1/2" capacity. If I have to use a drill larger than 1/2" use a Jacobs key type chuck or your asking for problems. Same goes for the smaller keyless chucks....don't use a drill larger than the size the chuck can hold.

Nyle

[SteveHGraham]

I just got a great deal on some new Silver & Deming bits, and like two minutes after the shipping email arrived, I watched a Tubalcain video where he said they were all crap. Oh, well.

[BadDog]

Don't believe everything you see on the internet. Even those who know a lot can have invalid opinions. And if that's what he expressed, then that is the case here. Nothing wrong with S&D. The majority I seem to see in most home shops are the very cheapest of the ChiCom import variety, but there are good examples too. Then there is the improper use and associated potential for damage angle, but again, that doesn't mean they are "all crap".

[SteveM]

I had heard that when you clean them, do NOT lube them, possibly because of over self-tightening.

Steve

[BadDog]

I've heard that too. I use my Albrecht (and a Rohm) keyless quite a lot, and I like them very well. But as said, I never use a reduced shank drill (aka S&D) to allow drilling over capacity. Well, at least not in steel. I might well do so in wood if it were convenient to do so. But generally I use larger Plain or Ball Bearing keyed chucks (largest is 18N, favorite and most common in use is a 3A) for anything that will be driving larger torques.