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[Harold_V]

Guys,
Years ago I purchased a used hydraulic pump that was used for opening a large door. It used a hydraulic motor, which was included in the purchase. The pump is regulated to 500 psi and seems to be more than adequate for use in tilting the larger of two furnaces I have, so I suspect that it will be adequate for powering the motor for which it was intended when it is adapted to the smaller furnace. Now my problem. There is no reference to the type of hydraulic oil I should use, and the holding tank, which is integral with the pump/motor assembly, is only about half full. I'd like to top it off. A gallon of oil would be more than enough. The motor in question is an Eaton Char-Lynn 103-1043-008.

I have looked, time and again, online, but all I come up with is advertisements for oil from various refineries, and I have not a clue what the oil should be. Any idea where I can find this information? Maybe a different way to search the web? I've come up dry thus far.
The oil in the tank appears to be rather viscous when compared to other hydraulic oils. It isn't discolored, just low.

Any thoughts?

H

edited to correct information. I had said "that the pump in question" when I meant the MOTOR.

[Bill Shields]

short of having it analyzed, there is little chance of getting an exact match.

were it me, I would just dump it all and start with a fresh batch of known fluid....or ignore the fact that you are going to have a mis-match and .....

[jcfx]

A POX on Eaton !!
Searching their site gets me 404 errors ( not found ), what crap !

Anyway, I did find this site - http://char-lynn.net/char-lynn_motor_s_ ... 3-xxxx-xxx
they seem to be a retailer/distributor, might be worth while to contact them regarding the hydraulic oil.
An easy solution to get the info needed...

Or, there is this brochure - https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton ... -en-us.pdf
Page A34 has info on oils, the S series ( 103-xxxx-xxx ) is your motor,
the info may give you a pointer in the right direction if you're familiar with hydraulic oils.

[Bill Shields]

I could recommend the stuff we use in combines, tractors and whatnot, but then we know what is/was in the tank to begin with.

Only REALLY CRITICAL cases I can remember are old British cars and the old Citroen cars, which had really funky seals that specifically required what we euphemistically called "bean oil' and if you used different than you were in for expensive repairs..kind of like DOT 3 brake fluid...

[Bill Shields]

All things considered...try tractor supply for farmer hydraulic oil

[Andy R]

Harold,

The chart on page A34 of the document found by jcfx indicates that the S series uses hydraulic oil with a viscosity of SUS from 100 to 200, with an equivalence of 20-24 cst.

Those both equate to ISO viscosity of 22 to 46.
McMaster-Carr has several oils that that meet the criteria...or buy from Tractor Supply as Bill Shields suggested.

And I second Bill's suggestion to dump the old out. The previous owner-operator may have filled it with the wrong stuff anyway.

Not an expert ... just looked it up.

[STRR]

Dump out the old and use any quality 10w hydraulic oil. The amount of usage you will be completing will not require any type of high performance oil with friction reduces, wear and moisture ,inhibitors.

I would recommend using it for a short while, dumping it again and refilling with the same 10w oil. Thus, flushing and ensuring all is clean and same oil. Thus, preventing any possible reactions between different additive packages and and dirt in the system from being in storage.

Manufacturers have to recommend oils for maximum usage and expected life. Home Gamers will never use the system as it gets used in commercial applications. Thus, no need to go for the expensive stuff.

[liveaboard]

hydraulic oil is just basic non-detergent mineral oil.
Contamination is minimal, it doesn't get hot and pressure is very low.

Check if the reservoir has a filter in it. If it does and it looks clean, it is.
I'd just top up with "hydraulic" oil, or whatever you use in the gearbox of your Kubota (Tractor gear/hydraulic oil).

If there is any grunge or whitish paste in the system, that's water contamination and it all needs flushing out.

[Richard_W]

I find that hydraulic oil sold by BiMart works good. Although Northern Tool which sells hydraulic pumps and cylinders say to use automatic transmission fluid. If you don't need much, then you can buy it by the quart.

Richard W.

[Harold_V]

Sorry for my late reply, folks. I was busy with the building of the hydraulic system and the concern over the cable and attachment strength. I feel I've resolved those issues so I'm now engaged in pursuing the proper oil.

The hydraulic system is compact--the cylindrical tank attaches directly to the pump/motor assembly, all in a nice, straight line, with the assembly mounted to the side of the induction furnace power supply. There is no obvious filter, but there's a large bolt out of the side of the pump, which may include an internal strainer. My Graziano has such a "filter". I'll pull it out to see what it is when I deal with the oil. It is well above the bottom of the tank, so it can't be expected to perform as a drain.

I checked today to see how easy it would be to change the fluid and was shocked to discover there are no ports in the tank to allow draining. The only port is a hole on top which is threaded and provides for filling and venting of the tank. Removing the tank may be one of my options. It's bolted to the pump by a flange on the tank end and attached with several hex head cap screws. It would allow for fully cleaning the tank. I could also syphon the oil, or pump it dry, and that sounds rather risky. I also discovered that the fluid level was much lower than I had suggested, so adding more is essential before I test drive the new lifting system.

Thanks to all for the time you spent exploring and responding to my inquiry. It is greatly appreciated.

H

[Bill Shields]

Having a drain is just another place to start a leak

It also increases the $ of production.

[pat1027]

The ISO VG scale has mostly replaced SUS. An SUS 100-200 is about an ISO VG32 to VG 46. For the limited use what you get at the tractor supply stores should be fine. Being on your furnaces if you wanted fire resistant Quintolubric was designed to replace mineral oil though that won't be at the tractor store.