Drill chuck; new China or used German?
- Bill Shields
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Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
And soft jaws can grab very well
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
How would you correct drill chuck runout?
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10595
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
Depends on where the runout is
Take the chuck apart and measure the runout on the central part of the chuck.
Either the runout is there or in the jaws
Take the chuck apart and measure the runout on the central part of the chuck.
Either the runout is there or in the jaws
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
In the shank mounting? The jaw insides seem complicated. Sadly, my HF drill press keyless chuck is also 4.5 thou... Maybe I'll find the high side and give it a whack.
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10595
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
So take the chuck off and measure the shank runout
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
- liveaboard
- Posts: 1987
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Re: Drill chuck; new China or used German?
I took my 2 Rohm chucks apart; it wasn't complex but it was difficult to get the nut loose.
I bought them online a while back, with #40 milling machine arbors.
One is damaged; the jaws are flattened from use (before me) and the inner mounting cone is fractured (i think I did that).
The second one was hardly used at all. It was on a bent arbor so I guess it was shelved long ago.
The inner and outer parts were chaffing, so it was difficult to use. I spun the parts on the lathe with a light touch of emery paper.
Now it's sweet.
To get (this particular) 13mm Rohm drill chuck apart, unscrew the front cone (RH thread), remove the jaws.
knock off the back cover with a drift. Unscrew the rear cone (RH thread).
There are loose bearing balls in there.
All a bit tedious, but very rewarding.
I bought them online a while back, with #40 milling machine arbors.
One is damaged; the jaws are flattened from use (before me) and the inner mounting cone is fractured (i think I did that).
The second one was hardly used at all. It was on a bent arbor so I guess it was shelved long ago.
The inner and outer parts were chaffing, so it was difficult to use. I spun the parts on the lathe with a light touch of emery paper.
Now it's sweet.
To get (this particular) 13mm Rohm drill chuck apart, unscrew the front cone (RH thread), remove the jaws.
knock off the back cover with a drift. Unscrew the rear cone (RH thread).
There are loose bearing balls in there.
All a bit tedious, but very rewarding.