As I said previously, I’ve had to wear a parachute. It was for flying in aerobatic aircraft outside of “normal flight parameters.” Not a valid comparison. I can make a part again. Can’t use a parachute twice if it didn’t work the first time. I’ve used Aloris and know they’re good. Doesn’t matter since I’m not spending $1000 on the toolpost for a lathe that cost less than $2000 used and under $3K new.
After using it to make some fairly precision parts. I have little to complain about with the Bostar QCTP. It’s good enough to show the weaknesses of the lathe. I’ve made .001” finish passes that were very consistent. No chatter when making cuts heavy enough to make blue chips. When I get time I’ll disassemble it and do a clean/debur/lube but that’s at least 3 weeks away. I have a few things that have to be done first.
Differences in Quick Change Tool Posts
Re: Differences in Quick Change Tool Posts
I have Phase II wedge AXA toolposts.
I started with a Phase II piston post and saw it tilting under heavy cutting, particularly parting.
I bought a generic import wedge post and it was so bad that I went back to the Phase II piston until I found someone selling a used Phase II wedge.
Holders are another story. The CDCO ones work well, but I have gotten some that I had to file the slot wider (like maybe a tenth or two) to get them to fit.
And as Bill says - the screw are junk - get yourself a box of HoloChrome screws and replace all of them.
I have an Aloris that is so old, it has a piston and only on one side. There is a tab sticking out of the bottom which is where the height adjustment screw on the BOTTOM of the toolholder sticks out for height adjustment.
Steve
I started with a Phase II piston post and saw it tilting under heavy cutting, particularly parting.
I bought a generic import wedge post and it was so bad that I went back to the Phase II piston until I found someone selling a used Phase II wedge.
Holders are another story. The CDCO ones work well, but I have gotten some that I had to file the slot wider (like maybe a tenth or two) to get them to fit.
And as Bill says - the screw are junk - get yourself a box of HoloChrome screws and replace all of them.
I have an Aloris that is so old, it has a piston and only on one side. There is a tab sticking out of the bottom which is where the height adjustment screw on the BOTTOM of the toolholder sticks out for height adjustment.
Steve
Re: Differences in Quick Change Tool Posts
That's the way kdk tool holders are. I really like the fact that there's nothing sticking up from the tool holder. I also really hate that there isn't a little "handle" sticking up from the tool holder.
I do wish that the height adjustment was better on the aloris style imports. Getting the jam nut to really lock the adjustment is almost impossible. I want to make a set of threaded split collars like I've seen somebody (Robin renzetti) on YouTube use.
I do wish that the height adjustment was better on the aloris style imports. Getting the jam nut to really lock the adjustment is almost impossible. I want to make a set of threaded split collars like I've seen somebody (Robin renzetti) on YouTube use.
Re: Differences in Quick Change Tool Posts
As I posted earlier, one of the adjustment wheels was drilled and threaded way off of square. While I was making a replacement I went ahead and made several out of 12L14. They’re a little thicker and about 1/8” larger diameter than the originals. Because they’re thicker they sit more square to the stud and they’re a little easier to grasp which makes tightening the jam nut with a wrench easier. Not something a buyer should have to do but it was easy enough. If I make any more they will probably be 3/8” or even 7/16” thick. There’s plenty of room on the studs to go that thick.