Compressed air condensation removal systems

[curtis cutter]

RSG made mention on another post of a copper coil cooling system for his air compressor to remove condensation. I have a twin cylinder maybe 20 CFM upright compressor that feeds a small moisture removing filter then about 30' of 3/4" steel pipe and finally a 50' hose reel plus some other taps for specific tools. My main issue is what was discussed in another subject line and that is moisture when using a large continuous air volume such as sandblasting.

How do others remove the moisture from the air?

[GlennW]

The air enters on the side and goes up and over the top and down to the outlet. The water can't crawl that far up the larger pipe so it collects down at the drain fitting.

[curtis cutter]

Compressor.jpg

The air enters on the side and goes up and over the top and down to the outlet. The water can't crawl that far up the larger pipe so it collects down at the drain fitting.

That seems pretty easy. I am in the process of building an outside room for the compressor to get rid of the noise and this could easily attach to the exterior wall. Thanks for this idea. It might be that I run the drain line out of 1/2" pipe to a catch tank inside the building with a "blow off" line to the exterior due to the possibility of freezing here.

[GlennW]

It works best closer to the blaster. That way the air is cooler.

I have one attached to the blast cabinet frame and have never seen any moisture problems..

[Steggy]

An automatic drain valve on the compressor's reservoir also helps. On my compressor, I have it rigged up so the drain valve is opened for a few seconds before the compressor actually starts. A filter-drier on the output traps moisture entrained in the discharge air before it can get into the shop piping.

[whateg0]

An automatic drain valve on the compressor's reservoir also helps. On my compressor, I have it rigged up so the drain valve is opened for a few seconds before the compressor actually starts. A filter-drier on the output traps moisture entrained in the discharge air before it can get into the shop piping.

Helps but if running continuously or near that, the air never gets a chance to cool down in the tank so it exits still warm. Then in the plumbing to the tool, the air cold, the moisture condenses, and get water out the end. That's where a point of use trap helps.

[Harold_V]

Helps but if running continuously or near that, the air never gets a chance to cool down in the tank so it exits still warm.

Yep! That's the exact problem I face with my system. For intermittent usage it's always dry, but if I blast very long, the tank gets warm and keeps the moisture in suspension. Only when it cools does it precipitate, and that's often when it hits the lines embedded in the walls, encapsulated in concrete. I get water delivery as a result.

I really like the point of use trap idea. Thanks, Glenn.

H

[Russ Hanscom]

Move to NM: with single digit humidity, I have to add water to the system.......

[Harold_V]

Move to NM: with single digit humidity, I have to add water to the system.......

Chuckle!
Yeah, that would work. Took us more than 20 years to complete our building project, so, based on that, If I start right now I'll be JUST 103 years old when we get done.

I remember the days of dry air, living in Utah. Skin, during the winter months, was always dry and chappy. Not a problem here in Western Washington.

I recall Glenn making mention that keeping rust at bay was impossible where he lives in Florida. The condtion of his grinder really displays what he says. Glenn, you have my sympathy.

H

[Bill Shields]

It is all a question of how much $ you want to spend to dry the air.

[RSG]

Curtis

The cooler I made is 50' long from 3/4" copper tubing cut and soldered in a manner that condenses it's size to about 6' x 14" as shown in the pic below. This way it can be placed low to the ground and some what hidden and with a few degrees taper on each branch the water naturally finds it way back to the ball valve at the bottom were the water can be removed. Works awesome! I then also have a Desiccant drier close to the blasting cabinet.

[curtis cutter]

Curtis

The cooler I made is 50' long from 3/4" copper tubing cut and soldered in a manner that condenses it's size to about 6' x 14" as shown in the pic below. This way it can be placed low to the ground and some what hidden and with a few degrees taper on each branch the water naturally finds it way back to the ball valve at the bottom were the water can be removed. Works awesome! I then also have a Desiccant drier close to the blasting cabinet.

Are your tubes cut to 5' in length? 3/4" copper at Home Depot is about $35 a stick now with 90's at about $2 each.