Thanks for the encouragement.
So far I've mostly used it for deburring some parts but I'm starting to get the feel for it. The main takeaway so far is to use light pressure. If you try to press to hard it just makes the part jump up and down. Let the tool do the work.
I need to take some time to make up a batch of files. I've accumulated a number of files that just need to be modified. It would be better to do it now rather than waiting until it is holding up other work.
MLA Filing Machine
Re: MLA Filing Machine
If you mounted the files so the cut is on the down stroke, would that work better?
RussN
RussN
Re: MLA Filing Machine
The cut has to be on the down stroke or there is no real hope of holding the piece down. The problem is the drag on the up stroke. If you push too hard it is enough to lift the piece.
Re: MLA Filing Machine
Yea, when you say the part is jumping, that's telling us you have the files upside down.
Think of a bandsaw blade - if it cut upwards, what chance would you have of holding the work down?
If you can find chainsaw files, the top end of them is round, not a flat taper like the handle end. You could cut the top 3" or so off, flip it upside down and it would work fine,
Look on ebay for die filer files. You can sometimes find them for reasonable prices. Don't buy from the guy selling three for $80.
Also, besides cutting on the downstroke, you want files that are NOT tapered - the file needs to be the same thickness across its length, or you will have a difficult time filing to size.
Chainsaw files are not tapered so that they present the same size to the chainsaw teeth thru the entire stroke.
While they will not be the best quality, you can get set of three chainsaw files at horror freight for six buck.
You can see how they are not tapered and already have an end you can grab in the machine:
Steve
Think of a bandsaw blade - if it cut upwards, what chance would you have of holding the work down?
If you can find chainsaw files, the top end of them is round, not a flat taper like the handle end. You could cut the top 3" or so off, flip it upside down and it would work fine,
Look on ebay for die filer files. You can sometimes find them for reasonable prices. Don't buy from the guy selling three for $80.
Also, besides cutting on the downstroke, you want files that are NOT tapered - the file needs to be the same thickness across its length, or you will have a difficult time filing to size.
Chainsaw files are not tapered so that they present the same size to the chainsaw teeth thru the entire stroke.
While they will not be the best quality, you can get set of three chainsaw files at horror freight for six buck.
You can see how they are not tapered and already have an end you can grab in the machine:
Steve
Re: MLA Filing Machine
I’m 100% sure the cut is on the down stroke. Not to be rude but if I can figure out all the steps needed to build the machine from rough castings I can probably figure out what direction a file cuts in.
It is a reciprocating motion so if there is too much drag on the up stroke it can lift the piece. It is just something you need to get the feel for. After a little bit it is easy to gauge how much pressure to use.
If you look at the picture from my previous post you can see the original tang on the right side. The left side was ground down so that the new shank could be epoxied on. The tip of the file was slightly tapered but the 3” or so closest to the tang was parallel. It is just enough to modify for one file.
I have a few round files that I have tried. I just haven't had that much need for a round file yet. The square one has been the most useful so far. It is nice that the round ones don't really need to be modified though.
It is a reciprocating motion so if there is too much drag on the up stroke it can lift the piece. It is just something you need to get the feel for. After a little bit it is easy to gauge how much pressure to use.
If you look at the picture from my previous post you can see the original tang on the right side. The left side was ground down so that the new shank could be epoxied on. The tip of the file was slightly tapered but the 3” or so closest to the tang was parallel. It is just enough to modify for one file.
I have a few round files that I have tried. I just haven't had that much need for a round file yet. The square one has been the most useful so far. It is nice that the round ones don't really need to be modified though.
Re: MLA Filing Machine
Re: part jumping up and down. Perhaps if the reciprocating motion is slowed down then you can have a chance to push on the downstroke and let up on the upstroke. The filing machine I have (of totally unknown origin) moves slowly enough to do this.
On another note, I bought a "pillar" file from McM-C and it was parallel on the edges but tapered in thickness. If you buy a "pillar" file it should be parallel face to face, The tapered one is marketed by APEX Tool Group #39861N. It is a great file from Nicholson, but it is not a true "pillar" file.
--earlgo
On another note, I bought a "pillar" file from McM-C and it was parallel on the edges but tapered in thickness. If you buy a "pillar" file it should be parallel face to face, The tapered one is marketed by APEX Tool Group #39861N. It is a great file from Nicholson, but it is not a true "pillar" file.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: MLA Filing Machine
Afaik any of the larger free standing and bench mounted filing machines all came with or had the option of an adjustable hold down assembly specifically to address that part lifting problem. I've read quite a few past posts mentioning some worked and were much easier to use. So if that was something I was interested in doing I'd be researching what the machine manufacturer's found to work the best. Building something more than rigid enough to resist the lifting forces while still being quick and easy to adjust as well as not get in the way of the work being done appear to be the largest design issues. This MLA machine is quite small compared to those larger die filer machines. And a lot would depend if Jean's is permanently bench mounted in one place or not as to whether something similar could be bolted down to the bench top to physically help prevent the parts from lifting. It was also quite common for smaller parts to fasten them down to a larger block or in a dedicated fixture simply to get enough grip and allow use of those same hold down parts.
Re: MLA Filing Machine
I just noticed that Blondihacks over on YouTube is building a die filer so I figured I would post an a update on my build.
The die filer has come in handy a couple of times but I have not used it quite as much as I thought. That is mostly due to do with the projects I've been working on. I have a feeling that it will get more use once I get back building my Clishay locomotive.
I still need to add a guard for the belt and wire in a switch. I also want to add a light.
The die filer has come in handy a couple of times but I have not used it quite as much as I thought. That is mostly due to do with the projects I've been working on. I have a feeling that it will get more use once I get back building my Clishay locomotive.
I still need to add a guard for the belt and wire in a switch. I also want to add a light.