5x6 Bandsaw Blades
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- Posts: 102
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5x6 Bandsaw Blades
I have a JET HVBS-56M 5x6 bandsaw that I have used very little, cutting a few pieces of mild steel bar and aluminum blocks.
I have rekindled an interest in live steam and starting (actually completing) a 1" locomotive...
I was setting up the saw in "vertical" mode to slice some 1" square x 14ga tube, and realized that the original blade was missing many teeth.
I plan to cut "small" bar and plate, as well as sheet metal, and need some recommendations on blades. The many options leave the novice to question what is best. Carbon steel, bi-metal, multiple pitch, etc. The blade size is 1/2" x 0.025" x 64 1/2"
I would appreciate your advice...
Thanks,
Jimmy
I have rekindled an interest in live steam and starting (actually completing) a 1" locomotive...
I was setting up the saw in "vertical" mode to slice some 1" square x 14ga tube, and realized that the original blade was missing many teeth.
I plan to cut "small" bar and plate, as well as sheet metal, and need some recommendations on blades. The many options leave the novice to question what is best. Carbon steel, bi-metal, multiple pitch, etc. The blade size is 1/2" x 0.025" x 64 1/2"
I would appreciate your advice...
Thanks,
Jimmy
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
I get my blades from McMasters-Carr I have had good luck with the Starrett blades. Just remember that at least three teeth should be in the material when cutting other wise you will strip off teeth, don't ask me how I know
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Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
I find the bimetal blades to be quite durable.
Starrett is good, as are Lenox and Irwin.
Starrett is good, as are Lenox and Irwin.
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
With 14 ga tubing getting 3 teeth into the cut when one gets close to the center of the tubing will be quite challenging.
- Bill Shields
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Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Hence a suggestion fotmr a fine pitch blade rather than coarse pitch.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Depends. If one has need to saw material with a considerable amount of the blade in the cut, fine pitch blades tend to be worthless. It's a good idea to have a blade coarse enough so each tooth produces a full chip and has adequate room to carry it to the end of the cut without packing. Once the gullet fills with chip, the blade floats, creating heat and eventually leading to tooth failure, either from heat or just rubbing. Cutting edges tend to perform a lot better and experience a prolonged lifespan when they're doing work instead of just rubbing.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sun Oct 18, 2020 9:12 pm Hence a suggestion fotmr a fine pitch blade rather than coarse pitch.
Best policy is to have more than one blade. Use the one that addresses the problems of the material to be sawn.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
I ordered three Starrett bi-metal - blades, a 24, 10 and a 10-14 TPI.
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Sometimes it is hard to stay with the three-teeth-in-contact recommendation. At those times I find it best to back off on the feed rate so the teeth in contact take a little less impact.
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Yep! What Russ said. Another trick, assuming you're trying to saw thin material (say, 1/16"), is to run the blade faster than recommended. The point of contact is so brief that it creates little heat at the tooth, and the increased speed helps limit self feeding. Don't go crazy with speed, increase by 25% or so.
Alternately, if you have enough blade speed, you can friction saw. While commercial friction saws may run 10,000 sfpm or greater, it will work at 1,500 sfpm. Amazing how a dull saw blade will cut a hardened file in half with almost no effort.
H
Alternately, if you have enough blade speed, you can friction saw. While commercial friction saws may run 10,000 sfpm or greater, it will work at 1,500 sfpm. Amazing how a dull saw blade will cut a hardened file in half with almost no effort.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
It won't apply to stock small bandsaws, but the "minimum 3 teeth engaged" rule is mainly a hedge against poor feed control (often just varying weight of over overarm with a spring to (poorly) regulate). On my vertical automatic feed/pressure is controlled by a sliding weight on a lever working against a variable bypass hydraulic cylinder. Together, they establish a feed rate of my choosing, and bigger/nicer saws have the same with power hydraulic feed. Because the feed rate is closely constrained, I can use coarser blades on thin structural than I would ever get away with on my small V/H saws. I suspect the upgrades I've seen for years with the hydraulic variable down feed controls might provide a similar function, and could even add the sliding weight, and set them against each other to get the feed/pressure you want. Life is still better with an appropriate pitch blade, but that setup makes other options workable without ripping teeth off, which is nice when figured against constantly fooling with those big blades (and cost).
Russ
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Re: 5x6 Bandsaw Blades
Questions on blade tensioning...
Manual states “Finger pressure should cause approximate .004” deflection.”
Please define finger pressure.
.004” (about the thickness of a sheet of paper) deflection would barely be perceptible.
Any more effective suggestions other than buying a tension gauge?
Thanks
-Jimmy
Manual states “Finger pressure should cause approximate .004” deflection.”
Please define finger pressure.
.004” (about the thickness of a sheet of paper) deflection would barely be perceptible.
Any more effective suggestions other than buying a tension gauge?
Thanks
-Jimmy