Titanium advice
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10459
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
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Re: Titanium advice
Use the stuff they glue cars together with. This is not rocket science ..or make a song fitting plug and use loctite.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Titanium advice
Well, my "go to" company is usually Henkel because they tend to carry adhesives for hard to bond materials and have the track record required for confidence. For instance I require glass cabochons for the logos on the fishing reels I produce to be bonded to aluminium and Henkel produces some very specific adhesives for the job. Sure, most products out there will "bond" the parts together but I require the reassurance that it won't fail in 3, 6, 10 years outdoors for instance. I can't say that about products from companies like "JB Weld", in fact I have tried some of their recommended epoxies only to have the parts fail in under 3 years. If I want a Double sided transfer adhesive I will always default to 3M as they are the leader in Pressure sensitive bond agents.John Hasler wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 10:58 am Where can you buy those exotics in the quantities needed for this application and what do they cost?
As to where you can purchase these items, MMC has a wonderful line up of just about any adhesive you could imagine and in small quantities...The price is usually not out of this world either. And Amazon carries most of the 3M products in small quantity with reasonable prices. So when I'm looking to bond things together with adhesive I always look to the exotic.
Hope this is of help
Vision is not seeing things as they are, but as they will be.
Re: Titanium advice
Sorry for not chiming back in with updates. I thought I had subscribed to this post so I’d get notifications but I must not have. Whoops.
I took the early advice and decided not to try and drill them. My original plan was to pick up some sort of small trailer hub, drill for the studs and be done with it. After a few of you chimed in to not do it, I went a different route and just built my own hubs. They still need to have chamfers added and be polished up but this is what I ended up with.
The shaft and bearing assembly are actually the auger that feeds the pellets in a pellet stove. A friend of mine repairs stoves and brought me over piles of parts in case I could use the steel. I cut off the auger blade and used the rest as is. Once the hubs are bolted to the turbine blades, the damn things spin for days with one push. (Alright minutes, not days.)
The two halves of the hub just squeeze the turbine. Took a little trial and error to get the fit right without wobbling, but I managed to get them dead on.
Thanks for saving me from a potential disaster,
Griz
I took the early advice and decided not to try and drill them. My original plan was to pick up some sort of small trailer hub, drill for the studs and be done with it. After a few of you chimed in to not do it, I went a different route and just built my own hubs. They still need to have chamfers added and be polished up but this is what I ended up with.
The shaft and bearing assembly are actually the auger that feeds the pellets in a pellet stove. A friend of mine repairs stoves and brought me over piles of parts in case I could use the steel. I cut off the auger blade and used the rest as is. Once the hubs are bolted to the turbine blades, the damn things spin for days with one push. (Alright minutes, not days.)
The two halves of the hub just squeeze the turbine. Took a little trial and error to get the fit right without wobbling, but I managed to get them dead on.
Thanks for saving me from a potential disaster,
Griz
Re: Titanium advice
And if you’re wondering, the stem that sticks through the side without the screws is so I can mount the “hub caps” he wants me to make