Boyar Shultz table stop

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little giant
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Boyar Shultz table stop

Post by little giant »

I am going to make a table lock for my Boyar Shultz 612 surface grinder. I would like close up pictures, or dimensions of the square flip lock (not round push type). Does anyone have this style of lock that I can get pictures of all sides?

Please note that the subject description was originally Boyar Shultz table lock, and was changed at the request of the author.
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Harold_V
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by Harold_V »

I don't wish to be an alarmist, but you'd be best served by doing some research on how the table is mounted to the machine before you give any thought to a lock. It may not work. It also may do damage, depending on how the table is mounted.

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little giant
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by little giant »

Sorry about the confusion, it should be called a table stop bar. I have a picture of what it looks like, but can't seem to transfer it.
little giant
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by little giant »

Screenshot_20200911-055423_Drive.jpg
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BadDog
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by BadDog »

Sorry, my junker has the push-pull. But it seems either style is rather easy enough to make without reference to original (even if the goal is to pass as original).

I'll also add (and display my ignorance) that I never understood the purpose of those stops on a manual machine. It's not like you can use them to hold a wall as you could if they were on the Y axis. The only thing I can see is if there was some tall structure (tooling, fixture, part projection) you wanted to avoid that was somewhat close to the limit of the required X axis stroke in that direction. Is there more?
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little giant
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by little giant »

When grinding punches, core pins, diameters ... using a Harig punch former or a spin indexer, you want the fixture to stop at the same location to grinding wheel for proper dimensions. You grind to a point, stop and move the part away from the grinding wheel and mic up the part, and determine how much more to remove from the part, then bring the table back to the stop and finish the part.
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BadDog
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by BadDog »

Ahh. Thanks for the explanation.

Not something I've had occasion to need so far. I'm just a grinding neophyte, still at the point where I only know enough to know there is a WHOLE lot that I don't know.
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Conrad_R_Hoffman
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by Conrad_R_Hoffman »

I've never understood the lack of a table lock. At the very least you need it for dressing the wheel so the diamond doesn't creep. I think it's possible to move the stops in so they both contact the push thingie, but that's a pita. Better to make a dedicated part, but I've never really looked at what's needed.
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1947 Logan 211 Lathe, Grizzly G1006 mill/drill, Clausing DP,
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Harold_V
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by Harold_V »

Conrad_R_Hoffman wrote: Mon Sep 14, 2020 1:54 pm I've never understood the lack of a table lock.
Likely due to the nature of surface grinders. It's hard to lock a slide without deflection, which can't be tolerated in precision grinding.
At the very least you need it for dressing the wheel so the diamond doesn't creep.
In my years, I've operated a number of makes of surface grinders. I've never experienced a problem with dressing the wheel in a free state of the table, and that's likely not unreasonable as the pressure involved is negligible, assuming you're dressing properly. It's always a good idea to use an angle mounted diamond*, with the shank set such that if the wheel picks up the diamond that it pushes the diamond away from the wheel, not towards the wheel. I've used that method and have never had an issue.

*The angle of the mounted diamond plays an important role, beyond just eliminating stubbing of the diamond. By using a mounted diamond with an angle, it can be slightly rotated when it develops a flat, effectively sharpening the nib. When a diamond gets rounded, it doesn't perform nearly as well as a sharp one. The resulting dress of the wheel may not be sharp, although it will be uniform.

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earlgo
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by earlgo »

The following is why I use a table stop, and why I use the Pachmyer PC-101 sharpening fixture.
table stop
table stop
table stop (2).jpg (50.74 KiB) Viewed 5090 times
grinding setup
grinding setup
setup (2).jpg (69.96 KiB) Viewed 5090 times
lip grind
lip grind
lip grind (2).jpg (66.54 KiB) Viewed 5090 times
finish
finish
Worked out fairly well.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
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BadDog
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by BadDog »

Thank you. Not sure why those points didn't occur to me, and I was stuck with tunnel vision on their application, but clearly of value. I've even got a sharpening fixture, but haven't used it yet. If I had done so, I'm pretty sure the purpose would have been too obvious for even me to miss. It's been used several times for flat, finish, and thickness, but never for sharpening. Now I'm glad my 6x12 8" SG has a nice limit setup (also a flip up like OP is looking for, just not BS). Thanks.
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little giant
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Re: Boyar Shultz table lock

Post by little giant »

Here are couple of photos of the lock mechanism.
Attachments
lock 2.jpg
lock 3.jpg
lock 1.jpg
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