Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.
Inspector wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:40 pm
Mineral spirits and paint thinners (what I think Harold meant when he said paint removers)
Yes, that's what I meant, and I thank you for the correction. I have edited my original comments to reflect what I really meant. Don't know what I was thinking when I made that post. I also should have included the words mineral spirits, but they simply didn't come to mind. It's hell getting old and goofy.
The beauty of using the proper solvent is the blocks can be coated and left so the solvent will dissolve the preservative. No scrubbing needed, nor desired for this application.
Assuming one makes solvent their choice, doesn't matter how long it remains, no damage can come from its use and if it dries out, simply rewetting will soften the material. If it was my project, I'd remove the preservative from all, then clean them all again with fresh solvent. Drying with an air hose will remove all traces.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Inspector wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:40 pm
Mineral spirits and paint thinners (what I think Harold meant when he said paint removers)
Yes, that's what I meant, and I thank you for the correction. I have edited my original comments to reflect what I really meant. Don't know what I was thinking when I made that post. I also should have included the words mineral spirits, but they simply didn't come to mind. It's hell getting old and goofy.
The beauty of using the proper solvent is the blocks can be coated and left so the solvent will dissolve the preservative. No scrubbing needed, nor desired for this application.
Assuming one makes solvent their choice, doesn't matter how long it remains, no damage can come from its use and if it dries out, simply rewetting will soften the material. If it was my project, I'd remove the preservative from all, then clean them all again with fresh solvent. Drying with an air hose will remove all traces.
H
Harold: If you dry blocks with an air hose, are you not using air that contains some water from the compression phase? and would not the water cause blocks to rust?
Hah, and speaking of gage blocks or JO blocks and they used to be called, I know I posted this picture before. We found these and several others in a used equipment dealer and couldn't pass up the historical significance. They were very inexpensive due to the rusty marks on them, but so what.
I have a nearly full set of Van Keuren blocks for real usage even though the last calibration was in 1988.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
"Harold: If you dry blocks with an air hose, are you not using air that contains some water from the compression phase? and would not the water cause blocks to rust?"
Mr Ron wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:24 pm
Harold: If you dry blocks with an air hose, are you not using air that contains some water from the compression phase? and would not the water cause blocks to rust?
I do NOT have an air dryer for my air supply, and it isn't beyond possibility for the air to transfer some water. If I operate my blast cabinet for a prolonged period, it often does. However, my air generally does not contain any ****free**** water. I use it regularly for drying washed components and do not have a rusting issue.
Assuming one did get a little water on the blocks, if they are immediately hand dried with a soft cotton cloth there should be no negative experience. Blocks do not rust as easily (nor as readily) as mild steel. Best possible scenario, of course, is to have perfectly dry air.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Thank you, Harold, for your reply. Your experience in the machining world comes through with your comments and wisdom. I always know that your advice is always the best.
I bought a cheap 81 block set; measured a few and they read right on. It's either that or a $5000 set of Webbers. Certainly, good enough for an amateur chip maker.
