Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

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SteveHGraham
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by SteveHGraham »

Don't store them next to your pool acid. That will be helpful.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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neanderman
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by neanderman »

Or your bleach.
Ed

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JimGlass
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by JimGlass »

I have it narrowed down to "Fluid Film" and CRC Heavy duty Corrosion inhibitor.

Fluid Film is clear and oily but does not evaporate (like WD40) and it clings to metal
surfaces for weeks. Good for all metal surfaces including measuring tools. John Deer implement dealers have it and so does NAPA.

CRC sprays on leaving a yellowish film of oil. In 24 hours the oil evaporates leaving
a waxy residue on the metal surface. This good for milling machine tables, vices, chucks and anything for long term storage. I don't use this on precision tools because it needs to be washed off before use. Washes off easily with kerosene or anything similar. My local NAPA store can get it for the asking.

Here in Northern Illinois I also run a dehumidifier. Helps reduce rust and the shop feels better and smells better. Running the dehumidifier 8 hours a day really helps and makes the electric bill look better. I also run AC when working in the shop.
Jim
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gwrdriver
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by gwrdriver »

One of the best things you can do in any shop to help deal with humidity is to keep the air moving. I have a satellite workshed (one of those portable bldgs) which has no heat, A/c, insulation, vapor barrier, or dehumidification and a light coat of LPS1 on bare metal surfaces and a small circulating fan has kept the lathe and drill press and other tools I keep there completely rust-free despite periods of high humidity.
GWRdriver
Nashville TN
lostpines
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by lostpines »

The guys at Bonneville and salt water fishermen are raving about Corrosion Block by Lear Chemicals. It's light in body,doesn't get sticky and lasts along time and smells good,It's the one I recommend. Here in central Texas in an uninsulated shop tools can be cold one day then warm humid weather comes along and every thing has a heavy layer of condensation like it's been left in the rain.Fortunately I now have an insulated shop which helps tremendously.Try Corrosion Block, you won't regret it.Steve
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Bill_Cook
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by Bill_Cook »

My shop is unheated when I'm not in it. It's damp when it's damp. the floor is wet when it rains. It's crudely constructed and not insulated. It's going to be that way until we finish the 90% alteration on our home - our labor and cash out of pocket. I.E. It's it's been a while and it's going to be a while.

The unpainted machine surfaces are kept oiled - mostly cutting, way, and AW 32 hydraulic. The machines are covered with multiple layers. (Not wrapped and not extending all the way down). The coverings are kept off the bare surfaces with with pieces of wood to allow air circulation and keep the oils from being absorbed. The outside layer is a plastic film. Incandescent bulbs provide heat.

An exception is the 13 watt twisty CFL work light on the 11" x 36" lathe which is stuffed down between the ways near the headstock.

The BP sized Cincinnati Toolmaster does just fine with 40 watts on the base between the knee elevating screw and "Y" ways. To use the mill a tightly woven bed sheet is pulled off the table, the rest of the covers are folded back over the turret, and the 2x4 wood blocks are stacked nearby. The mill is clean and ready to go after proper lubrication.

Another trick is wiring bulbs in series. Of course if one goes the circuit is open, but they last longer, and I feel the reddish glow means more heat with less light. Two bulbs are noticeably redder. With three bulbs the coiled filaments are clearly visible through the frosted glass. Multiple lamps also allow the heat to be spread out. Miss matched bulbs yield unmatched outputs.

Perhaps the more electrically knowledgeable here could clear some of the fog in my understanding, like what is the effect of adding more bulbs, frosted/clear?

Any way, the preceding is how I've successfully dealt with the rust issue. Also, the oil film even on surfaces that aren't level doesn't need to be replenished as often as I would have thought. Occasional use of the equipment is enough.

BC
BC

If there was only one way to do each machining job, the smell of sulphurized cutting oil smoke would have fewer fond memories.
16WhiteColly
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Re: Best way to protect parts of lathes and mills from rust

Post by 16WhiteColly »

I brush on a light coat of ATF with a foam brush. Works great.
40 year retired machinist.
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