Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
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- Posts: 2166
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- Location: Bel Air, MD
Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
Hello everybody!
Recently, I purchased a Haas TL-1 lathe and I've put it to work making lots of stuff.
Here's a prototype photo of the flexible staybolt caps from the Pennsy G5 at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania: Sorry, the photo is sideways...
I found a copy of the original blueprint and scaled it down. Here's the almost finished result:
Still needs deburring and removal of the bit from parting off. It's threaded #10-56. I chose that thread because the dummy fireboxes like many people use are thin sheet metal. Taps are readily available on ebay. The hex is 9/32".
I'm offering them at $3 apiece including shipping. Currently, I have about 150 of them in stock. With another 20 feet of hex material ready to go.
I can go to the museum and make a count from each engine that they have there. These are visible below the running boards.
I've also scaled an ALCO flexible staybolt cap down from a drawing in a Locomotive Cyclopedia. Here's the first one of those that I ran last night to check the program. Still needs a little tweaking, but it's close.
PM me if you're interested.
Thank you for looking!
Andy Pullen
Recently, I purchased a Haas TL-1 lathe and I've put it to work making lots of stuff.
Here's a prototype photo of the flexible staybolt caps from the Pennsy G5 at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania: Sorry, the photo is sideways...
I found a copy of the original blueprint and scaled it down. Here's the almost finished result:
Still needs deburring and removal of the bit from parting off. It's threaded #10-56. I chose that thread because the dummy fireboxes like many people use are thin sheet metal. Taps are readily available on ebay. The hex is 9/32".
I'm offering them at $3 apiece including shipping. Currently, I have about 150 of them in stock. With another 20 feet of hex material ready to go.
I can go to the museum and make a count from each engine that they have there. These are visible below the running boards.
I've also scaled an ALCO flexible staybolt cap down from a drawing in a Locomotive Cyclopedia. Here's the first one of those that I ran last night to check the program. Still needs a little tweaking, but it's close.
PM me if you're interested.
Thank you for looking!
Andy Pullen
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
how cool is that...!!!!
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
- Trainman4602
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
I don't no how cool it is I did it 20 years ago on the 1361 Just reshaped a hex bolt It is cheaper
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
- Trainman4602
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
I don't no how cool it is I did it 20 years ago on the 1361 Just reshaped a hex bolt It is cheaper
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
- Trainman4602
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- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
sorry for the blury pictures they were taken years ago before digital cameras
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
- Bill Shields
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
Good to hear from you. Was getting concerned...
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
how much more efficient would a haas toolroom mill make your drive rod production ?
I'm guessing that lathe is a shade too small for turning drive wheels/tires?
I'm guessing that lathe is a shade too small for turning drive wheels/tires?
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- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:17 am
- Location: Bel Air, MD
Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
I have a ProtoTrak milling machine. There are 2 Haas tool room mills where I work.
The Haas TL-1 lathe is a 16” x 30” lathe. I have a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw for it as well as a collet chuck. It doesn’t have a turret on it. Just an Aloris CXA toolpost. I have turned a number of wheels on it.
I’ll typically rough out wheel castings on my Reed Prentice and finish them in the Haas now.
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
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- Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:17 am
- Location: Bel Air, MD
Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
Really Dave???Trainman4602 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 19, 2022 11:09 am Fire box side 3.JPGI don't no how cool it is I did it 20 years ago on the 1361 Just reshaped a hex bolt It is cheaperTROAT SHEET 4.JPG
I know that you have no use for CNC. And that you say it’s useless for this hobby. But, there’s Dave’s way and the wrong way to do things.
I’d much rather buy a stick of material and make a part that’s 98% complete than have to modify a bunch of bolts like you did. Your way is a waste of time and effort in my opinion.
Andy Pullen
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
This is exactly the kind of BS we don't need in this hobby....my way is better than your way. Nothing wrong with constructive criticism when it is intended to help, this is a hobby for the majority of us, and helping each other out is part of the hobby. There are many different ways to achieve a goal, how you get there is part of the process and the fun. There is no need to bash someone else because your way of doing things is different than theirs, you want to help out or suggest an idea,, or an alternative method of achieving the same goal....go for it......if you can't be civil about it , keep it to yourself!
Nyle
Nyle
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- Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:17 am
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Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
Thank you for the comment Bill!
Well put Nyle.
Andy
Well put Nyle.
Andy
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
Re: Pennsy flexible staybolt cap detail parts
Do keep this civil, folks. There is no need to belittle those who happen to have a different view from those each of us may have.
I don't know that there's anyone on this board that is more proud of their manual machining skills than I am of mine (although they pale in comparison to the skill level I had when I was actively machining), but for anyone to suggest that a manual machine can outwork a CNC is simply not paying attention to reality. A CNC doesn't take breaks, doesn't stop for a smoke, doesn't BS with everyone passing by and doesn't make scrap, barring the unforeseen mishap. To its credit, each part is a carbon copy of the previous part, assuming sharp tools are maintained.
I have a Haas CNC mill, and have very little experience in running the machine, primarily because of limited need. I might also mention that it currently has an issue with the power supply which needs attention, the result of my knocking out the primary fuses in the three-phase power to my shop. It will get repaired in due time, when my shop is officially in operation.
I have used the CNC to make parts that would have been extremely challenging on manual machines, if for no other reason, the large number of operations, each of which offers yet another chance to make an error. Those who are fortunate enough to have CNC capability should not be chastised for their choices, nor should those who operate CNC machines chastise those who happen to be skilled in manual operations. There's room for each in this hobby, each of which offers advantages that may be difficult for the other.
Don't like CNC? Fine. Don't buy one. Just don't criticize, on this venue, those who do. I mean, really, what's the point? What is gained by such an outburst?
H
I don't know that there's anyone on this board that is more proud of their manual machining skills than I am of mine (although they pale in comparison to the skill level I had when I was actively machining), but for anyone to suggest that a manual machine can outwork a CNC is simply not paying attention to reality. A CNC doesn't take breaks, doesn't stop for a smoke, doesn't BS with everyone passing by and doesn't make scrap, barring the unforeseen mishap. To its credit, each part is a carbon copy of the previous part, assuming sharp tools are maintained.
I have a Haas CNC mill, and have very little experience in running the machine, primarily because of limited need. I might also mention that it currently has an issue with the power supply which needs attention, the result of my knocking out the primary fuses in the three-phase power to my shop. It will get repaired in due time, when my shop is officially in operation.
I have used the CNC to make parts that would have been extremely challenging on manual machines, if for no other reason, the large number of operations, each of which offers yet another chance to make an error. Those who are fortunate enough to have CNC capability should not be chastised for their choices, nor should those who operate CNC machines chastise those who happen to be skilled in manual operations. There's room for each in this hobby, each of which offers advantages that may be difficult for the other.
Don't like CNC? Fine. Don't buy one. Just don't criticize, on this venue, those who do. I mean, really, what's the point? What is gained by such an outburst?
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.