Should I disassemble my new 9729
Moderator: Harold_V
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 9:08 pm
- Location: Belle Chasse Louisiana
Should I disassemble my new 9729
I’ve been doing some history research going back several years. I came across more than three times where it was suggested to disassemble the new 3in 1 before making the first push of the start button . All these suggestions were however years ago . I’m thinking, hopping, maybe that issue has been resolved ? I have no problem with disassembly, I love taking things apart. I have a second question as well . I have the g9729 and want to buy a QCTP. Which one would I want ? I’m not worried about having to make modifications to which ever one . I want to be rigid. Thanks Farmer Dan
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
In my opinion I'd definitely recommend it. These off shore machines are built down to a price point. There's really no extra left for any proper cleaning and de-burring. Even my more modest priced Taiwan built Bridgeport clone showed the need to do so. While I didn't find even a few ounces of grinding dust, there was certainly a few grams of it to where I'm more than happy I took the extra time to do so. Secondly all these machines are slathered in a anti rust preservative. Because of that, any factory set gib or feed nut adjustments are done on the loose side so the slides can still move. And there's literally no way to fully remove all that preservative without at least some machine disassembly. Plus it also and naturally gets contaminated with any grinding dust, chips etc. What I wouldn't recommend is taking the head stock off the machine or pulling the spindle and bearings on either the lathe or mill unless you know EXACTLY what your doing. The motors don't need disassembly either.Just make sure to keep all the parts in order as you disassemble it even to which bolt or screw fits where and what part. There completely interchangeable part ideas can be a bit different than ours sometimes. Solvent clean the parts in the reverse order you took them off and either clean them them all at once, or clean and re-install each one as there done. All this allows proper re-lubrication with the correct lube that the machine DOESN'T come with. Then with properly adjusted gibs and feed nuts, the whole machine will feel and be much tighter while still much smoother to operate. The hrs this takes is just the trade off that's non optional imo between buying cheaper or pay actual industrial prices for multiple times more in costs.
Use your fingers along all the machined or ground surface edges. Anything sharp, then a light filing or stoning to put a tiny bevel or chamfer on each edge is also very worth while. Gib bearing surfaces on some machines could be a whole lot better than they are sometimes. Lapping it's face that goes against the slides moving parts with fine emery paper and oil to remove any tool marks is important. But, never ever try and lap the tool slide surfaces even if there fairly rough. It's impossible to maintain any accuracy of alignment the machine may have been built with by that hand lapping. Any ball bearings that are oil lubed I'd also leave them in place and just flush them with this. http://crc-canada.ca/qd-8482-contact-cl ... grams.html And then re-lube. While you have it apart, it's a real good idea to closely look and feel the drive belts surfaces that ride on the pulley flanks. A lot of these machines have the cheapest poor quality belts possible. Any signs of poor joining or even lumpiness, replace them with the same size and American brand name belts. When I'm doing anything like this I use a lot of ex light plastic meat containers, old coffee cans, zip lock bags etc along with a listing on paper kept with the parts of what it is and where it goes just to be 100% sure of no mistakes. Pedantic maybe, but it saves the time it takes just with one misstep or mistake during that re-assembly. Whatever off shore machine tool you buy will last a whole lot longer and be smoother and more accurate with just this minimal effort. While I would check the machines basic operations over an inch or two for it's slides and motors that they do work. After that too many get understandably impatient about just running the machine for why they bought it. Because I didn't have the VFD I wanted when I got my mill, I spent an hr or two over a couple of weeks cleaning and de-burring my mill before it was ever ran. I've never regretted that extra time at all.
Use your fingers along all the machined or ground surface edges. Anything sharp, then a light filing or stoning to put a tiny bevel or chamfer on each edge is also very worth while. Gib bearing surfaces on some machines could be a whole lot better than they are sometimes. Lapping it's face that goes against the slides moving parts with fine emery paper and oil to remove any tool marks is important. But, never ever try and lap the tool slide surfaces even if there fairly rough. It's impossible to maintain any accuracy of alignment the machine may have been built with by that hand lapping. Any ball bearings that are oil lubed I'd also leave them in place and just flush them with this. http://crc-canada.ca/qd-8482-contact-cl ... grams.html And then re-lube. While you have it apart, it's a real good idea to closely look and feel the drive belts surfaces that ride on the pulley flanks. A lot of these machines have the cheapest poor quality belts possible. Any signs of poor joining or even lumpiness, replace them with the same size and American brand name belts. When I'm doing anything like this I use a lot of ex light plastic meat containers, old coffee cans, zip lock bags etc along with a listing on paper kept with the parts of what it is and where it goes just to be 100% sure of no mistakes. Pedantic maybe, but it saves the time it takes just with one misstep or mistake during that re-assembly. Whatever off shore machine tool you buy will last a whole lot longer and be smoother and more accurate with just this minimal effort. While I would check the machines basic operations over an inch or two for it's slides and motors that they do work. After that too many get understandably impatient about just running the machine for why they bought it. Because I didn't have the VFD I wanted when I got my mill, I spent an hr or two over a couple of weeks cleaning and de-burring my mill before it was ever ran. I've never regretted that extra time at all.
- RussellCofIdaho
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2016 1:44 pm
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
I think Pete’s suggestions above are the best but you have a Grizzly machine, they have a retail store and warehouse in Washington so you are in the best position for customer service if there is any. When I was looking to upgrade I considered Grizzly first for this reason, even though they were about 20% more.
I am still planning to visit their store when I get to the west coast again.
I am still planning to visit their store when I get to the west coast again.
Russell Courtenay
Idaho - USA
unknownidaho.wordpress.com
Big trains and big dreams...
Idaho - USA
unknownidaho.wordpress.com
Big trains and big dreams...
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 9:08 pm
- Location: Belle Chasse Louisiana
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
Thanks Pete for taking the time out to so thoroughly answer my question and explain what to look for. I was a bit Leary about taking apart a brand new machine, but I get it . I see it’s like farming in a way , its what you do in the beginning that only show with the harvest.
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
Your Welcome. If you use a new maybe 2" wide cheap paint brush and a clean container large enough to stand the parts in. At the end on the job you'll see exactly why it's such a good practice to pull them apart for that solvent cleaning. That's a good analogy between ground prep, water, fertilizing etc and your harvest results as well.
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
If you disassemble a "Chinese" machine, keep track of every bolt and screw and where it goes. I have found that they will grind down screws and bolts on occasion to avoid interference with other parts. If you get it wrong, things don't quite go back together as they were and this can lead to other problems.
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
And pictures! Take lots of pictures.pete wrote: I use a lot of ex light plastic meat containers, old coffee cans, zip lock bags etc along with a listing on paper kept with the parts of what it is and where it goes just to be 100% sure of no mistakes.
Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
Rmac has a great idea. It might really help with re-assembly and just might convince a few others these machines aren't really ready to go right out of the shipping crate.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Should I disassemble my new 9729
QTCP
Shars, CDCO and Phase II have pretty equal stuff. (All PRC or ROC).
All have cheap screws so purchase a box of USA made screws to hold the tool bits in place and start by just throwing the original screws in the trash on day 1
Watch for sales. You can never have enough holders. Sometimes I find holders for $10 or so on sale (or used to). I probably have 20 or so and all have at least one tool in them...most have 2.
Is very nice to just grab a holder with a tool ready to go....at virtually any needed angle
Some of my holders have identical tools set at different angles so that I almost never need to rotate the tool post in the cross slide..in fact I indicate it square to the spindle and it has been maybe 2 years since I took a wrench to the post to change the angle independent of the cross slide angle needing to be changed.
This concept may not apply on a 3+1 machine, but is something to consider.
Basically I want the cut off tool to be square and work to that position for all others.
Holders of same size are interchangeable from one mfgr to the other.
If you have the $ and want an Aloris you will be very happy but hang onto wallet.
Another company that used to make the posts Is DTM.. dove tail manufacturing. If you can find a used from either..jump on it. Aloris and DTM are USA made
Wedge posts hold better than piston type for my applications. Theoretically the piston posts should be more repeatable, but I have found that they do not lock as tight and sometimes vibrate loose under heavy cuts.
I have a DTM wedge post on the lathe and several Shars or CDCO posts on my lathe tool grinder, and everything interchanges without problems. Yes...some holders fit the dovetail tighter than others, but all fit and are usable.
Shars, CDCO and Phase II have pretty equal stuff. (All PRC or ROC).
All have cheap screws so purchase a box of USA made screws to hold the tool bits in place and start by just throwing the original screws in the trash on day 1
Watch for sales. You can never have enough holders. Sometimes I find holders for $10 or so on sale (or used to). I probably have 20 or so and all have at least one tool in them...most have 2.
Is very nice to just grab a holder with a tool ready to go....at virtually any needed angle
Some of my holders have identical tools set at different angles so that I almost never need to rotate the tool post in the cross slide..in fact I indicate it square to the spindle and it has been maybe 2 years since I took a wrench to the post to change the angle independent of the cross slide angle needing to be changed.
This concept may not apply on a 3+1 machine, but is something to consider.
Basically I want the cut off tool to be square and work to that position for all others.
Holders of same size are interchangeable from one mfgr to the other.
If you have the $ and want an Aloris you will be very happy but hang onto wallet.
Another company that used to make the posts Is DTM.. dove tail manufacturing. If you can find a used from either..jump on it. Aloris and DTM are USA made
Wedge posts hold better than piston type for my applications. Theoretically the piston posts should be more repeatable, but I have found that they do not lock as tight and sometimes vibrate loose under heavy cuts.
I have a DTM wedge post on the lathe and several Shars or CDCO posts on my lathe tool grinder, and everything interchanges without problems. Yes...some holders fit the dovetail tighter than others, but all fit and are usable.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.