Earlier this year Trainman gave me some advice on using a BCC Product called Kwick Kast II that is a two part molding plastic that you can make molds from and also do plastic master castings with. Being able to make a female mold off an original and then turnaround to make multible positive copies gives you the ability to send off a copy to the foundry and not your original pattern.
My project was to produce a core box to make the cores for the Journal Boxes on a 1.6 inch per foot scale Hodges Trailing Truck.
I had made an earlier attempt with a plaster mold that worked but was failing fast as I used it. Trainman suggested the Kwick Kast II sold by BCC. I bought a one gallon kit along with a quart of mold release wax.
I originally drew the core as a positive and had the part done as a Rapid Prototype by Shapeways.
This I mounted to a match plate which I built a small box around out of scrap pine.
The two part plastic comes in white and black. You end up with a gray plastic.
It pours easy and seems to not have a problem with shrinkage or air bubbles being trapped.
CORE BOX USING KWICK KAST II
Moderator: Harold_V
CORE BOX USING KWICK KAST II
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: CORE BOX USING KWICK KAST II
I used two Solo Cups for measuring and waisted half a cup full when I over estimated how much I wood need.
I mixed it in a small tupperware bowl. (I guess I will be buying her a new one) After the mix dried the left over popped right out. (Sometimes I really don't understand why she gets upset).
After it had set up for around thirty minutes I flipped it over and poured the other side. Not so much waste this time.
After it had set up I pealed the outer box pieces off.
Before I pulled the two pieces off the matchplate I drilled two holes for alignment dowls
After it had dried for two hours I sanded it on the bench sander to smooth up the outside. I will label it with a Sharpie as the Core Box for the Journal Box.
Hope to try it out this week as I am planning on doing three sets of the Trailing Truck parts prior to Putting the patterns into storage.
I mixed it in a small tupperware bowl. (I guess I will be buying her a new one) After the mix dried the left over popped right out. (Sometimes I really don't understand why she gets upset).
After it had set up for around thirty minutes I flipped it over and poured the other side. Not so much waste this time.
After it had set up I pealed the outer box pieces off.
Before I pulled the two pieces off the matchplate I drilled two holes for alignment dowls
After it had dried for two hours I sanded it on the bench sander to smooth up the outside. I will label it with a Sharpie as the Core Box for the Journal Box.
Hope to try it out this week as I am planning on doing three sets of the Trailing Truck parts prior to Putting the patterns into storage.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: CORE BOX USING KWICK KAST II
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)