The SR&CL Ry foundry, watch our progress

[tomc]

Some more pics of the project staus. The motor got mounted and plugged in to see which way it would rotate. CCW. We set the tub on the frame.

Tom C.

[steamin10]

Just an opinion, but;

I looks like the drum is a little too tall, not critical , but unhandy in use.

Did you provide for a drop door on the off side, with maybe a chute to hit a pan or bucket? Bottom drops are the norm for a plow and wheel muller.

When you decide to assemble plow works, I recommend you use two plow arms and two wheels that can float up and down the central spindle, or mount the plow arms with a set bolt so they barely clear the bottom. The wheels should be staggered about the 1/3 radius lines of the drum, the plows set to pull mixed material away from the center, and the outside as each wheel passes. The process is more to kneed the mix rather than stir. The plows pick up and roll the material to be run over and squashed by the weight of the floating wheels.

I hope these thoughts help.

[tomc]

Just an opinion, but;
Did you provide for a drop door on the off side, with maybe a chute to hit a pan or bucket? Bottom drops are the norm for a plow and wheel muller.

Yes a drop door is in the plans.

[tomc]

We were able to put some more time into the muller. I welded up the ceter support and some arms to hold the wheels. Mel cut a hole for the center bearing and got it bolted in. One set of arm holes needs reaming to get the arm in and the holes for the axles need reaming. We did watch it go around.

Tom C.

[steamin10]

Looking very good. You differ in detail to the Big mullers I have seen, but that doesn't matter. In essence you have it. Dont be affraid to cut something off and add some welding rod if you see a little tweek to be done.

I suffer with a Mighty-mite, but I have it so I use it.

Good progress, you are going to make me tool jealous.

[Charles Cleland]

Hi; I, m a newbe and I am trying to do the same thing. If I knew how to post pictures I would past them on .I'm about the same place you are in the tub buiding I used a 32 to one worm gear and I have to gear it down four to one to the worm gear.you have a NEETgear train. I will stay in touch.
charliebill

[Charles Cleland]

H i
The muller that I built doesn't work ,I doubt if I could mix koolade let alone sand. by the time I load up that 3/4 Hp motor some part of my gear train breaks oh well back to the drawing board .MAN THAT GEAR REDUCTION YOU GOT IS REALLY NEET. you don't think so untill you spend a couple of weeks in the shop like I did and get zilchs results keep up the good work
chazjavascript:emoticon(':(')

[tomc]

Charles,
I forgot about this thread. Here are some more pics of the parts we made. We welded steel around the center bearing to keep the sand out. Made parts heavy duty to stand up to spinning.


Tom C.

[tomc]

Finally, we have our foundry where parts are coming out. Mel made some pattern boards and we are testing and learning how to make parts. The part on the left is a double of the Body Bolster side support, the other is 1/4 of a spring. Put 4 together for a new pattern of a complete spring. Next up is cored parts.

Tom C.

[tomc]

This is our patteren for the pedistal. Maybe we will be able to pour next time over to see what comes out.

Tom C.

[pockets]

Great progress, Tom. I LIKE that pedestal and can't wait to see the journal boxes.

Greg B.

[tomc]

Here is a shot of the complete muller. I noticed I never finished that. We find that we can overload it and stall the motor. Have to watch the batch size. Works great otherwise. One other modification we made was to cut down the lenght of one of the blades as it would hold to much product in front and not tumble.

Tom C.