1903 Springfield project

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audioshooter
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1903 Springfield project

Post by audioshooter »

I found a great deal on a semi sporterized 1903 with a 1928 reciever date. I just finished my barrel vise and need to make an aluminum bushing for it. my barrel measures 1.205 at the reciever and before it starts to taper. From what i see, the brownells bushing measures 1.200". i have all the tooling and machinery to make my bushing, my question is:

would it be better to bore the i.d. of the bushing to 1.200" and allow the aluminum to compress to fit, or i have a 1 13/64 (1.2031") and just drill it?


This is my over built vise with adapter to use my truck as a counter weight:


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s64/ ... szlpuv.jpg
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Dave_C
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by Dave_C »

By golly that ought to do it! Don't flip the truck over. :lol:

As far as the fit, looks like either one could work.

Dave C.
I learn something new every day! Problem is I forget two.
audioshooter
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by audioshooter »

DrDavo wrote:By golly that ought to do it! Don't flip the truck over. :lol:

As far as the fit, looks like either one could work.

Dave C.

being a college student i dont have the ability to bolt anything to the concrete at my apartment. its made from 2"x2" solid steel for the vise. the "jaw" sides were ground flat. I found a 24" piece of 2" .25" wall square tube to make the adapter. that was about 20 bucks worth of steel and $25 worth of grade 8 bolts. I love the drill press we have in our shop that runs a 1.75" drill bit.
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Harold_V
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by Harold_V »

audioshooter wrote:would it be better to bore the i.d. of the bushing to 1.200" and allow the aluminum to compress to fit, or i have a 1 13/64 (1.2031") and just drill it?
Drilling is a rather inexact operation, often yielding tapered holes that may or may not be round. If you have the ability, bore the size you require. Make it identical to the diameter you wish to grip, but allow space between the two halves of the device so it can compress on the piece when the bolts are tightened. That way you won't have any particular pressure points on the barrel, and it will be supported nearly 100%. It's the same principal as using soft jaws in a three jaw chuck.

You can accomplish the required spacing between the two gripping elements by installing some thin shims between the two faces before boring. I expect something like 1/32" would suffice, but if the ears have a tendency to bend (when gripping a barrel), you may wish to use a little more. Needless to say, you'd then tighten the bolts to hold the shims securely for the boring operation. Remove the shims after you've sized the hole.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
audioshooter
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by audioshooter »

Harold_V wrote:
audioshooter wrote:would it be better to bore the i.d. of the bushing to 1.200" and allow the aluminum to compress to fit, or i have a 1 13/64 (1.2031") and just drill it?
Drilling is a rather inexact operation, often yielding tapered holes that may or may not be round. If you have the ability, bore the size you require. Make it identical to the diameter you wish to grip, but allow space between the two halves of the device so it can compress on the piece when the bolts are tightened. That way you won't have any particular pressure points on the barrel, and it will be supported nearly 100%. It's the same principal as using soft jaws in a three jaw chuck.

You can accomplish the required spacing between the two gripping elements by installing some thin shims between the two faces before boring. I expect something like 1/32" would suffice, but if the ears have a tendency to bend (when gripping a barrel), you may wish to use a little more. Needless to say, you'd then tighten the bolts to hold the shims securely for the boring operation. Remove the shims after you've sized the hole.

Harold

i am making the bushings from a solid aluminum rod on a lathe. i had planned on cutting the bushing once made and i thought that gap would leave enough space for the .002" difference to be made up for once tightened. This isnt the case i take it?
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Harold_V
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by Harold_V »

Sorry, I didn't catch the implication that you were making a bushing, as my comment applied to the handle you showed.
Everything I said would still apply. I'd highly recommend you bore the handle with a shim installed, so it can compress on the bushing in a uniform fashion. If you've drilled that hole only, and you haven't provided for the small amount of compression needed for gripping, you'll have concentrated points of pressure, and they may not be uniform, meaning that one side of the hole may (or may not) be smaller than the opposite side. And, the hole may or may not be round, and likely is not. That's part of the problem of using a drill for sizing. It can be true of even reamed holes, although your chance of having a more uniform hole is better than with a twist drill alone. There's not really a substitute for boring when you hope for a uniform hole.

In regards to the bushing you spoke of, yeah, make the OD the identical size as the handle, then simply split the bushing on one side. That will allow for the necessary compression for the handle to firmly engage the barrel. In truth, you need not split the bushing, assuming it's a fairly thin wall (1/16 or less), as it will compress enough to function as desired. The problem could be getting it on and off the barrel, however, so splitting one side is a good decision.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
audioshooter
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by audioshooter »

Well i made two bushing today. this is my first real project on a lathe. I am very happy with how it turned out. These are straight off cutting tools with no sand paper or file finishing.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s64/ ... qhd01w.jpg
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Harold_V
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by Harold_V »

Looks real good!
Something to consider. You can general split only one side of a bushing, so it remains one piece. Makes it a lot easier to locate when you're putting it to use. It will still flex to allow insertion and withdrawal from the barrel, although it must be capable of being slid in place.

Well done!

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
audioshooter
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Re: 1903 Springfield project

Post by audioshooter »

I have the front sight post on my barrel and felt it was easier to split the bushing than take it off.
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