1911 Project
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: 1911 Project
Keep posting Glenn.
I've been thinking of buying a kit....or at least the parts, to build one.
I only have three 1911's(Combat Commanders count too)....and three can't be enough.
I've been thinking of buying a kit....or at least the parts, to build one.
I only have three 1911's(Combat Commanders count too)....and three can't be enough.
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
Re: 1911 Project
Didn't do much tonight but hone the bore on a couple of mainspring housings and start on a seer jig.
I find that the key to completion on these projects is to post them. That way I feel obligated and guilty if I don't keep progressing!
I find that the key to completion on these projects is to post them. That way I feel obligated and guilty if I don't keep progressing!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: 1911 Project
Looks great so far Glenn! Looking forward to seeing the rest.....
Vision is not seeing things as they are, but as they will be.
Re: 1911 Project
I have always said that how one works is a good indicator of the degree of quality that will be achieved. The workmanship being shown here is amazing. Well done, Glenn, although I'm certainly not surprised.
H
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: 1911 Project
Thank you for the comments.
Nothing too spectacular last night, just ground a section of heat treated steel bar to .808" diameter to start making a sear grinding fixture.
Nothing too spectacular last night, just ground a section of heat treated steel bar to .808" diameter to start making a sear grinding fixture.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: 1911 Project
Today's contribution was to fit the mainspring housing and did a bit of blending around the grip safety to frame interface.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: 1911 Project
Chucked up the ground bar in the lathe and roughed the end down to .115" in preparation for grinding. Then dug out the "Grind All" from the closet and zero'd the bar so the small diameter can be ground to fit in the sear bore (.111") and be dead coaxial with the bar.. Once I get the small stub and the shoulder ground on the bar I'll be nearly ready to grind the unfinished, long, sear nose (EGW sear) to the proper radius. (True radius sear) I know you can buy this stuff, but it wouldn't be as much fun.
Ended up having to work today, so not much time to play.
Looks like I'll probably end up just buying a blank slide and doing the whole deal.
Ended up having to work today, so not much time to play.
Looks like I'll probably end up just buying a blank slide and doing the whole deal.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: 1911 Project
I finished up my grinding "fixture" and received some parts today, so now I may be able to get going again. (EGW swapped a long sear in there for me rather than the finished sear normally packaged)
The small shank on the rod was ground to fit the sear bore and then ground the shoulder dead square using the "Grind All" and surface grinder. Now the sear just slides on.
Then a 1/8" pin was fit into the end of the bar to drive the sear. Now it's set up on the OD grinder so I can grind the sear between centers. With this setup I could probably grind a hundred of them in an hour, but I only have two to do! Checking the setup, I have .0002" total runout on the bar right next to the sear, so I can live with that. I can also make a simple clamp to secure the sear to the end of the fixture and go back to the "Grind All" and surface grinder to grind a sear if i want to. As it is now, the dead center (spring loaded on grinders) is pressing the sear onto the fixture.
The O.D. grinder swings a 14" wheel, and I have a couple that should do very well finish wise.
Hopefully, I'll have time to grind a sear this weekend
The small shank on the rod was ground to fit the sear bore and then ground the shoulder dead square using the "Grind All" and surface grinder. Now the sear just slides on.
Then a 1/8" pin was fit into the end of the bar to drive the sear. Now it's set up on the OD grinder so I can grind the sear between centers. With this setup I could probably grind a hundred of them in an hour, but I only have two to do! Checking the setup, I have .0002" total runout on the bar right next to the sear, so I can live with that. I can also make a simple clamp to secure the sear to the end of the fixture and go back to the "Grind All" and surface grinder to grind a sear if i want to. As it is now, the dead center (spring loaded on grinders) is pressing the sear onto the fixture.
The O.D. grinder swings a 14" wheel, and I have a couple that should do very well finish wise.
Hopefully, I'll have time to grind a sear this weekend
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: 1911 Project
Glen, While you have the sear all lined up and rotating concentrically around the hole, may I suggest a modification that helps get a smooth unvarying trigger pull?
The following is a pic of the unmodified sear, but to make a smooth trigger pull one should grind away the area cross hatched in green to about .005 to .010 below the normal surface. The diameter of the raised boss should be as large as can be fitted on your sear. See blue arrow. This should be done on both sides of the sear. It makes a raised boss on each side so that if there is any slop in the pin hole, the tip of the sear will not drag on the side of the cavity in the frame. See green arrow. I know that since you are honing each hole you will have minimum pin slop, but this modification has proven very effective.
When you get to the hammer, I will post another suggestion, if you don't mind.
--earlgo
The following is a pic of the unmodified sear, but to make a smooth trigger pull one should grind away the area cross hatched in green to about .005 to .010 below the normal surface. The diameter of the raised boss should be as large as can be fitted on your sear. See blue arrow. This should be done on both sides of the sear. It makes a raised boss on each side so that if there is any slop in the pin hole, the tip of the sear will not drag on the side of the cavity in the frame. See green arrow. I know that since you are honing each hole you will have minimum pin slop, but this modification has proven very effective.
When you get to the hammer, I will post another suggestion, if you don't mind.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: 1911 Project
Suggestions are welcomed
Thanks!
Thanks!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: 1911 Project
I ended up having to work all day again, but I did get to grind one sear before i went home. Turned out as planned.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!