The Home Machinist!

Anyone here have experience with machine (mill) checkering the front strap on a 1911 frame? I'm not looking to invest in the specialized fixtures just entertaining the idea of doing two of my own frames, both aluminum. It may not be worth it don't know.
On one of the guns I'm almost better off selling it and buying a new one already done vs sending it out to be done. I'm not considering refinishing, I do my own Cerakote.

A picture of the piece with the desired finish might help. I'm not familiar with the checkering you mentioned, and the mention of 1911 doesn't seem to bring up any thoughts.

That said, if one can determine the function desired, could be there's an easy way to accomplish the task.

Harold

Personally, I put checkering in the aesthetics category.

If you are after functionality, nothing will beat a strip of grip tape.

Harold_V wrote:A picture of the piece with the desired finish might help. I'm not familiar with the checkering you mentioned, and the mention of 1911 doesn't seem to bring up any thoughts.

That said, if one can determine the function desired, could be there's an easy way to accomplish the task.

Harold

Harold, the Colt Model 1911was a design by John M. Browning and was the U.S. standard side arm from 1911 until 1986. Even now it is still being manufactured by Colt and a host of other companies.
The area in question is a curved surface on the forward face of the hand grip the checkering there to keep your hand from slipping.
Keith

Here is a brief video of the machine process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XBCVfa91-E
The fixtures and tooling are too big of an investment to do one or two pistols. Even the specialty files to do it by hand are kind of not worth it. Unless someone wants to do it for the personal satisfaction of learning the skill. Very tedious and time consuming, more so by hand.
The gun smiths got me by the you know whats on this one.

LVRR2095 wrote:Harold, the Colt Model 1911was a design by John M. Browning and was the U.S. standard side arm from 1911 until 1986. Even now it is still being manufactured by Colt and a host of other companies.
The area in question is a curved surface on the forward face of the hand grip the checkering there to keep your hand from slipping.
Keith

Sigh!
Thanks, Keith. In my original response I wondered if I should mention that it might be related to the Colt, but after giving it some thought, I decided against it. My memory of those old pistols isn't very fresh, as I was discharged from the National Guard back in '62. The outfit I was attached to was an M.P. Company (625th MP's, now defunct, in Salt Lake City, Utah). I've never been a fan of pistols, always preferred revolvers.

That said, I don't have any tricks up my sleeve to make the checkering any easier.

Harold

In the '70's at the Colorado School of Trades, instead of expensive checkering, we were taught how to 'stipple' with a hammer and a center punch. This involves holding the punch about 1/8" off the surface of the part and striking it with the hammer. While keeping up the striking process, the tip of the punch was moved in random directions over the surface. Eventually the surface became stippled and provided a more secure grip. A good "stippler" could produce a nice even job and after blueing (read Dulite) the job was more than acceptable, and a lot cheaper. (Please do not confuse "stippler" with "tippler", they may be related but not the same. )
I'd advise practicing on a chunk of bar stock about the same radius as the front strap of the 1911 until you are familiar with the process.
Just another suggestion.

--earlgo
(I'll dig out the .45 if you are interested in a picture.)

You can, with care, checker Aluminium using carbide wood checkering tools, I've done some 1911 mag eject button extension outer surfaces which turned out nicely.