The Home Machinist!

Could You slit the plate and press it a little smaller? I had a similar thought, but slightly different manner. Could you heat shrink the bracket, either by quickly heating to high temp and cooling, or running several weld bead around the circumference of the bore on both side (possibly you could T...

If it is a D1-3, you can get a backing plate for a lot less than $500. You can pickup a nice Bison from KBC for about $250. Or pick up a cheap generic D1-3 plate from Shars for as little as $65 (depending on size/finish). See also: Grizzly, AllIndustrial ($40 ???), AjaxToolSupply.

The Logan (and apparently Southbend?) used a 4-digit part number on the older lathes. So, for instance, follower for an old 14" Logan was part# 6320, a steady rest was #6315, etc.(I think they became AC-xxx part numbers sometime very early or pre-1940). Unfortunately I just haven't been able to...

I searched for a while but haven't yet found it. Based on the style (orientation of mounting lugs, sweeping frame) I think it is a Southbend or Logan, probably pre-1940. I found lots of very similar followers, but most (like above) have the dogs on the opposite of the frame. So far my google-foo has...

Wilks does lots of special alloys as well as standard steel. Trepanning is done for a whole array of different reasons, including: - special alloys that are not produced as cored product from the mill - sizes that are not readily available from the mill (particularly for one-offs, no mill is going t...

Are you climb milling or conventional milling? Also, are you maintaining a constant traverse speed or stopping/starting? Looks like climb milling with a stop/start and a bit of backlash in the X.

My HF grade 52"x16ga finger brake appears to just uses 3/4" thick (as I recall) fingers that appear to be a plain cold rolled steel (probably 1018 or similar). The fingers are not hardened.

It's similar to a Tool-Flo grooving/parting insert and Walter makes a Cut MX system, a triangular/quadangular insert that fits in an indexing slot toolholder. I wasn't familar with what Stefan's specific system was, I figured it was some small specialty German producer, but searching around a bit I ...

Another thing you can try (if the hole still needs to be enlarged) is to use a small cutter-cutting endmill (or a stubby stout drill with pretty flat face) and drill 3 holes around the perimeter of the broken off carbide tip. Then you can usually use a small punch or screwdriver blade to loosen the ...

I agree with warm, I would try first without heating. Also, you can try drilling out the core with slightly larger than the pipe bore sized drills to thin out the thread profile. This will release compression in the stuck piece and make it easier to remove. If you really want to heat and don't want ...

I think you want to search for a "plain back 5c chuck". A bunch of different manufacturers make the; Bison, TMX, etc., also the cheaper China versions. There is also a cheap round cylinder 5c chuck (I have one) that can be held in a standard 3/4 jaw chuck. Examples: https://www.kbctools.co...

Rust removers generally convert "rust", Fe2O3, into other softer/dissolvable (usually black) iron oxides, iron sulfate, and iron phosphates. Those may leave a staining on the surface, but should hopefully should come off with more clean rust remover, a light acid (though that may cause an ...