The Home Machinist!

OK, I'm going to go in a different direction than everyone else and say this is neither a milling nor a lathe part. To me it looks like a column for a multi-station drilling table. 2 to 5 of these would be bolted to a long cast iron table. Each would have a sliding head drill mounted to the face wit...

Yep, looks like a Morse Taper milling collet. Probably a #2 which would probably have a 3/8-24 thread for a drawbar, though there doesn't seem to be any standard. Here is a #2 1/4" from LMS with a 3/8-16 drawbar thread: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1747 And ...

Eh... its just lots of small magnets attached to wheels and staggered with the poles to always be always be in magnetic repulsion. They also make a number of highly dubious claims: "no friction" - false, there is clearly friction including friction with the air (compression in the gap) and...

As mentioned you can by the blanks. Used to be very cheap at ENCO, but folks are real proud of them now. Cheapest I saw was on amazon. Pshaw... I shop at KBC and a few other sites now. They seem to be picking up where Enco left off. No constant stupid coupons and codes, just good prices on stuff th...

I can think of 3 options.... 1) You can get Morse taper shanks for milling cutters and face mills, these have a straight section of shaft that the cutter/head would would go over. 2) You can get Morse taper to blank end adapters (for machining custom cutter/reamer holders), though the blank end may ...

Humm,I have a ShumaTech.. I think its a 550, but I don't recall. I built it up, programmed it, and started to install it but didn't really like the scales that I got at the time. I put it aside and its been one of those projects to get back to at some point... The Shumatech documentation is still up...

OK... this thread seems a bit silly. First, I think you need to take a step even further back and determine what the current control system is on the compressor. Then determine what the power requirements are for the motor and determine if you can/cannot pass that thru a timer or need an external sw...

Given that is it early 1900s, it might not be a standard ANSI/DIN thread. Back then lots of manufacturers and industries had their own threads forms that were similar, but not the same as others. I.e. Armengaud threads, Bodmer threads (German precision instruments), Bourgeaux and Latard threads (Swi...

Where you looking for some specific form of a bolt? McMaster has hex-head bolts in both 10.9 and 12.9 grades, in plain and yellow-chromated steel. Even a 8.8 grade should be good enough for a class IV hitch I would think, and you can get all sorts of head forms in that grade. According to this, the ...

Given that it is the cheapest option... I think you are right that it has no wobble because it was made the easiest way, with all surfaces concentric. Additionally, you separately bought a hex broach, but it is the cutting surface aligned at the center of rotation when at an offset angle? To check a...

I guess I'm the odd man out...I always remove nameplate rivets by drilling a small hole down the center of the rivet (possibly center punching or grinding a flat before drilling) maybe a 1/16" or so. Then use a larger drill slightly smaller than the diameter of the rivet shank to weaken the hea...

I have done some blasting of paint off various cast iron and cast steel (bits of transmissions and engines) and used aluminum oxide grit. It digs deep into the existing paint and produces a fine scuff pattern on the material that the new paint readily locks onto. But you want to protect gasket surfa...