The Home Machinist!

A little more detail on the last post Eye up castings and mark center Drill and ream a shallow 1/8" hole for pin both ends Notice in previous pictures the chest is on match plate I used for cylinders . Drill pin location holes in plate Then all machining and drilling are matched While vertical mill ...

Thank you Russ.
In my mind I was going to make a cutter to run on the horizontal arbor with over arm support but the diameter was just a little big.
Started on steam chests but on hold now the vertical mill 2 speed switch is acting up so I ordered one. I hope it's that and not the motor.
Jim

Had to fab up a super fly. Worked good but .01 a cut at 40 RPM took a while.
Jim

The finish came out nice.
This picture was not the final pass.

Got a few hours in this week

Here is .my solution to alignment and tie down. I think the most used machine in my shop is my Brown and Sharpe horizontal mill.
Jim

It was time to check the fit in the frame and the front truck. Then some encouragement shots.
Jim

Machined the shoulder where the top frame clamps the cylinders down. I'm working on a quick and dirty fixture to hold it down to do the critical stuff.
Jim

The front subframe dropped in with no issues. This is all done old school by dials and backlash I have never owned a dro. At times I sure would like one though.
Jim

Hi Harold, after mowing late afternoon I popped in the shop and tapped the holes and did not have a chance to test. According to Winton Brown engineering data page 36 1/4 NPT needs 3/8 deep to be tight. If I have to I will grind an old tap (if I don't already have one) and enlarge the threads.
Jim

Used a 2 flute 7/16 mill plunged 3/8. Tapped 1/4 NPT.
Drilled passage at 15 degrees. I based all lengths from faced head side.
This has got me thinking about drain cocks and
Greg's stacked cheeseburger snifter valves.
Jim

Oh I mentioned spacers possible earlier but with 3/8 plate I could take off 1/8 maybe 3/16 if needed.